Hiking Alta Via 2 (160km) - Dolomites (Italy) - Part 3: Rif. Marmolada - Rif. Mulaz - Biv. Minazio

The mist was lifting off the lake giving way to the first rays of sunshine. This is probably the easiest stage of all. Starting on the left bank of the lake on a road that reaches Passo Fedaia. Here cut to the right and downhill on green pastures, but never too far from the road. Not much to see but a long hour down to the Malga Ciapela village.

Plans to go up Marmolada had been ruined as the gondola was closed due to Covid. And so was the ATM and the only supermarket on route, leaving me with no food and no cash. Finding the trail again was no easy task as the first signpost was at the end of a side road by a power plant. Path continues through the forest on a grassy wide track and over a raging torrent. The signs are somehow confusing but I follow my guidebook and take a left turn in the direction of Forca Rossa. It's a steep ascent through the forest, into a big clearing and finally a long zig zag to the pass. If you follow an old track, there's a big chance of it disappearing at some point! From the top, downhill to Rif. Fuciade, where, with no rooms available, I'm asked to pay 100€ for a bed. Further down the valley, just as the storm starts I seek shelter at Rif Miralago (actually a hotel), also full, but am greeted with coffee, pie, bed and shower in their sauna room for a fraction of the price. Now that's hospitality.

Next day starts from Passo San Pellegrino. Across the road, the path cuts through an ever bogy land and uphill, in a forest divided by ski slopes. Arrived at a plateau, one can enjoy a magnificent view over the Marmolada range. Continuing on well marked path, it goes above Lago di Cavia and stops at a junction near Rif Laresei, from where a straight an quick descent brings you to Passo Valles on a gravel road. Crossing the road, the path ascends steeply to Forcella Venegia, where, keeping left and following the ridge you will eventually arrive at Forcella Venegiotta. Best views are a few meters higher on the ridge where, you are greeted with a splendid view. Follow the path to Passo dei Fochet and continue on route 751 marked Rif. Mulaz. The scenery never stops to impress but be careful as it's a long drop to the bottom. After some time, you take a sharp turn to the right into the heart of the mountains on a broken rocky path to arrive at a steep wall with perma-snow. A few tricky steps aided by a cable and done. Now the last section is an easy scramble to the refuge, only seen before the final steps due to it's location, surrounded by high peaks.

With the season soon ending and huts starting to close, I keep merging stages and next day starts off ascending through big rocks and on a very loose path, aided at the top with a few wooden steps which emerges into Forcella Margherita. The reward, a beautiful sunrise over the valley. From here it drops abruptly into a moon like landscape, cuts across a snowy field and ascends again on a very steep and loose gully to Passo delle Farangole. Left side rock has a few cables and perhaps easier than the gully. Getting to the top was hard, but getting back down on the other side is no easier. Steep, loose and narrow. A few cables, an old ladder. At the junction, signs are not clear and end up taking left on a carved path into the mountain. Almost at the end of it, I spot the path into the valley. With no time to return, I dash across the mountain and reach the bottom out of breath and thinking "that was stupid". Now the valley opens up and trail continues to the right across the steep mountain side, on some sort of via-ferrata. Pray not to be caught in a thunder storm on this section. At last at Rif. Rosetta. To the left, a shortcut to Passo delle Lede. After a delicious chocolate cake I move forward on a rocky plateau and then a man made gravel track towards Passo di Bal. Beautiful sharp rocky peaks and zig zaging paths carved into mountain faces. The ascent is not hard and after another easy via-ferrata, I'm at the top and just before 4pm, at Rif Pradidali. It's full. A beer and off I go. The path slowly ascents alongside a water pipe to reach a steep wall and join the path coming from Rosetta. A short and fun via-ferrata and I'm at the pass. The sun is still up, but clouds are starting to come in.

From this point onwards, it's a descent on an easy but loose rocky path. Lesson learned - never stop on the edge of a cliff to take a photo. It gave way and I ended up with several bruises and 2 broken ribs and lucky to still be alive. In the end I've managed to get myself to Biv. Minazio. The water source is 20 minutes away and a bit of a challenge to get to.
#AltaVia2​ #hikingDolomites​ #solohiking
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