Hiking Alta Via 2 (160km) - Dolomites (Italy) - Part 4: Biv. Minazio - Rif. Cereda - Croce d'Aune

Sleepless night and pain with every movement. That is pretty much how I would describe the 8 hours spent in Biv. Minazio. The stabbing pain with every breath meant broken ribs. My heavily bruised legs weren't feeling better either.

Nevertheless, I was not about to give up on completing the hike but carrying a heavy pack over the mountains is easier said than done. From the bivouac one has to decent steeply into the bottom valley and cross to the other side of the mountain, ascending to Rif Treviso and further up, through pine forest at first and then boulders, to Forcella d'Oltro. From the pass, the path is visible but narrow and quite exposed at times. It continues to the right alongside the mountain face for a few good hours. Tripping here is not an option as it means certain death. Once starting to loose altitude, I was allowed a glimpse of distant peaks and the green valley floor.

Distinct rocky sharp formations mark the beginning of descent to Passo Cereda. Neither the easiest nor the quickest but eventually you break through the forest line and emerge into a green sea dotted with purple flowers. 10 minutes down the paved road, hikers spend the night at Rif. Cereda. Rooms have balcony and bathrooms hot water so it's a good time to wash some clothes. The food is great and Cava cheap.

Fighting with the hangover from too much Cava and with the pain, I start the next day at first light in the direction of Matiuz village following a paved road through the forest. Eventually you leave this behind and continue on gravel before starting the real ascent on a dirt track and boulders. There's a fantastic view over the pass and Pale S. Martino mountain range.

Higher up, the path ascends alongside imposing rocky faces and the terrain becomes a lot harder and loose. A small col with a few metal ladders brings you to the other side of the mountain where a series of via ferrata sections help the hiker with the last few hundred meter of ascent to the top. Between the cables, a lot of attention is required as there's no room for mistakes. This section would be very difficult in wet conditions and best avoid in a storm. It is exposed, steep and rocky with some loose sections.

Effort is rewarded once arrived at Passo del Comedon. Sadly for me the clouds have covered the sky once again. Arrived on the other side, the path continues to the right but is by no means easier. Narrow and extremely exposed on loose rock, in traverses the mountain range for a few good kilometres to arrive at a small col from where Biv. Feltre can be seen.

While initially was planning to spend the night here, I found myself having to rush as the season was ending and huts closing.

Further ahead, one continues ascending slowly through dwarf pines passing by these crystal clear cold water pools. After a series of small hilltops, the path becomes again narrow and expose marking the start of "Troi del Caserin", a high mountain crossing which shepherds used to use in the past. After a couple of hours the clouds start to dissipate and I can finally see a bit more than a few meters. Sometimes the gamble of leaving early to stay ahead the store doesn't pay off. Arrived at Pass de Mura, I'm somehow relieved to be off the death path. A quick descent through scattered pine trees bring me to Rif. Bruno Boz where I spent the last night on the hike.

Inevitably nostalgia hits you knowing all this amazing adventure is coming to an end. But be no relaxed just yet as the last stage is quite demanding and hard. From the refuge a well marked path continues through the forest and makes its way back up on the ridge. If you wake up early enough, you are rewarded with the most amazing sunrise over rocky peaks and green valleys. The path keeps ascending and becomes narrower as you go higher and stays below the ridge until the very last moment. Exposure is high and adrenaline pumps through the veins making me forget about the pain. An amazing view hard to describe in words is to be had. The final steps brings you to a man made rock ladder, Scalette. Making your way through big boulders you emerge on the other side and start your descent on the slopes of Sasso Scarnia. It is only after a good stretch when the path becomes easier and alternates between gains and loses of elevation till reaching Piazza del Diavolo. After this, a short expose traverse is the last hard section of the trek. Apart from a short ascent on an old mule track is pretty much a continuous descent on variate terrain till Rif. G dal Piaz, already closed at my arrival. A wide gravel track marks the descent all the way down to the Passo Croce d'Aune.

For most, here is where AV2 ends. There is however one last stretch to Pedavena. Takes around 4-5 hours and follows the valley floor, never to far away from the road. For me, a local bus to Feltre seemed like a better choice.

It was a fantastic journey and one of the best hikes I had done in Europe.

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