Tips on Olympus High Speed Sync Flash
These are some notes on using 'High Speed Sync' with your Olympus camera.
1. It was originally designed as a way to give you fill flash in bright conditions, not for use as a main light but the tech has developed into a more mainstream tool for overpowering/filling bright ambient light with fast apertures
2. In order to use it for portraits during bright daylight you’re going to need a powerful strobe or a group of strobes to get enough power to make it work. One small on camera flash isn't really enough power for a lot of situations.
3. When you turn on HSS you immediately lose about 1 stop of power from your flash power. So if you want the max amount of light from your strobe you have to stick with normal sync speeds.
4. Generally speaking, following the sunny/16 rule you’re going to be needing about 4-5 extra stops of light to over power the sun, maybe more if you’re also modifying the light with a soft box or umbrella.
5. As you add shutter speeds you also lose some power becuase in HSS the flash is more like a constant light rather than flash. The more time you have the shutter open the more light can get in.
6. Both aperture and SS are affected in the exposure in HSS just like if you were using a video light unlike with normal flash synch where the shutter speed does not affect the flash output.
7. You can immediately gain 2 stops (4x) power from your light by moving it 50% closer to the subject. This would probably be my first move if I could get away with it in terms of composition.
8. Overpowering the sun isn’t really a great look for many photographs, 99% of the time I don’t like it because it looks unnatural, I prefer to just use my flash as fill light until late in the day when the ambient light is much easier to overpower. This technique works even better when you’re firing from shade at a shaded subject with a bright background.
9. The upsides to HSS is that with today’s modern flashes it’s almost always readily available. It’s quick to use and doesn’t require extra gear unless you need to bring a big strobe.
10. The alternative is using and ND filter to bring down both the flash and the ambient and then use the power of the strobe to overcome it. This adds glass to the optical path, creates a more cumbersome workflow and costs more but gives you even more flexibility in exposure because you don’t lose any flash efficiency AND you can also vary the ISO to make the camera side more flexible.
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Olympus 75mm: https://amzn.to/2GxUtL8
Godox v860IIO Flash: https://amzn.to/2EjPj3j
Видео Tips on Olympus High Speed Sync Flash канала Joseph Ellis
1. It was originally designed as a way to give you fill flash in bright conditions, not for use as a main light but the tech has developed into a more mainstream tool for overpowering/filling bright ambient light with fast apertures
2. In order to use it for portraits during bright daylight you’re going to need a powerful strobe or a group of strobes to get enough power to make it work. One small on camera flash isn't really enough power for a lot of situations.
3. When you turn on HSS you immediately lose about 1 stop of power from your flash power. So if you want the max amount of light from your strobe you have to stick with normal sync speeds.
4. Generally speaking, following the sunny/16 rule you’re going to be needing about 4-5 extra stops of light to over power the sun, maybe more if you’re also modifying the light with a soft box or umbrella.
5. As you add shutter speeds you also lose some power becuase in HSS the flash is more like a constant light rather than flash. The more time you have the shutter open the more light can get in.
6. Both aperture and SS are affected in the exposure in HSS just like if you were using a video light unlike with normal flash synch where the shutter speed does not affect the flash output.
7. You can immediately gain 2 stops (4x) power from your light by moving it 50% closer to the subject. This would probably be my first move if I could get away with it in terms of composition.
8. Overpowering the sun isn’t really a great look for many photographs, 99% of the time I don’t like it because it looks unnatural, I prefer to just use my flash as fill light until late in the day when the ambient light is much easier to overpower. This technique works even better when you’re firing from shade at a shaded subject with a bright background.
9. The upsides to HSS is that with today’s modern flashes it’s almost always readily available. It’s quick to use and doesn’t require extra gear unless you need to bring a big strobe.
10. The alternative is using and ND filter to bring down both the flash and the ambient and then use the power of the strobe to overcome it. This adds glass to the optical path, creates a more cumbersome workflow and costs more but gives you even more flexibility in exposure because you don’t lose any flash efficiency AND you can also vary the ISO to make the camera side more flexible.
Follow Me:
My website: http://www.josephmark.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/josephmarkphoto
Personal Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/family_phot...
Professional Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/josephmarkp...
I’m an affiliate marketer with links to an online retailer and receive commissions for purchases made through these links and affiliated sites
Olympus OMD EM1 MKII: https://amzn.to/2I7I2dc
Cosyspeed Camslinger 160: https://amzn.to/2xca1E0
Manfrotto Video Monopod: https://amzn.to/2IMLaId
My Wedding Kit:
Olympus OMD EM1 MKII: https://amzn.to/2JjBZzU
Olympus EM5 MKII: https://amzn.to/2Jiwdyh
Olympus 7-14mm Pro: https://amzn.to/2GAoav8
Olympus 12-40mm Pro: https://amzn.to/2JkXTm6
Olympus 40-150mm Pro: https://amzn.to/2H7BEiU
Olympus 17mm Pro: https://amzn.to/2Jl3mJN
Olympus 25mm Pro: https://amzn.to/2GzwCLf
Olympus 45mm Pro: https://amzn.to/2q1Iqia
Olympus 12mm: https://amzn.to/2Jl3EjR
Olympus 75mm: https://amzn.to/2GxUtL8
Godox v860IIO Flash: https://amzn.to/2EjPj3j
Видео Tips on Olympus High Speed Sync Flash канала Joseph Ellis
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