How to Remove a Stuck or Seized O2 Sensor

How to remove a seized oxygen sensor. I’m working with a 1998 Ford Ranger, unfortunately there is an issue with the oxygen sensor and it needs to be replaced. Typically oxygen sensors will come with an anti seized pre applied from factory, however with age this can eventually wear off. You’ll be tackling with both rust and soot in the exhaust, if the sensor has been there for a longer period, there is a greater change of tackling these issues. If you’re wondering how to test or troubleshoot a faulty oxygen sensor, I do have a video on this so be sure to check it out. #exhaust #emissions #autorepair

Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA
Penetrating oil: https://amzn.to/2M2USgC
Small propane torch: https://amzn.to/2Lu4JvK
Dead blow hammers: https://amzn.to/37t25Or
Oxygen sensor socket: https://amzn.to/3s6sidx
Canada
Penetrating oil: https://amzn.to/2OQZYxD
Small propane torch: https://amzn.to/3jnkFMV
Dead blow hammers: https://amzn.to/2Nk4B2L
Oxygen sensor socket: https://amzn.to/3bifJoX

AutoPartsWay (CA): https://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist.cfm?allveh/allb/emission-control/sensors/oxygen-sensor/pagenum1/tabs
AutoPartsWay (US): https://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?allveh/allb/emission-control/sensors/oxygen-sensor/pagenum1/tabs

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wrench or sensor socket
-propane torch
-new replacement sensor
-deadblow hammer
-penetrating oil

Procedure:
You’ll need to disconnect the sensor and disconnect any wires as need. There are special oxygen sensor sockets which has a spot for the wire, however in this situation the sensor is too close to the floor so there isn’t enough room for a ratchet. If it’s an old sensor, you can always cut the wire or sensor off, leaking the hex with the threaded insert.

I normally use the box end side of a wrench, it should fit over the electrical connector. Do not use the open end of a wrench as it can flex and doesn’t have a complete hold around the whole hex, there is a greater chance of stripping it.

If this fails, you can use the assistance of heat. A propane torch usually works great for this, in an extreme situation an acetylene torch maybe needed. Heat the sensor up around the bung, a good quality penetrating oil can be applied to further help assist the seized sensor.

If you don’t have access to a torch, even starting the vehicle and take it for a short drive, allowing the engine coming up to operating temperature and heating up the exhaust.

This method can be used with or without heat, hold the wrench into place, keep pressure on it and then hit to wrench with a hammer. Here I’m using a dead blower hammer which is filled with a weight inside to help provide force. The rubber exterior prevents the wrench from becoming damaged. This will shock the threads and can break the sensor loose.

Once that sensor is removed, if you were using heat you’ll need to be careful not to burn yourself.

Comparing the old and new sensors, to ensure they are the same. As mentioned earlier, AutoPartsWay has supplied me with the part and they carry a wide variety of sensors for your vehicle. A link will be provided in the description below. The new sensor is equipped with an anti-seize, be careful not to get this on the sensor portion.

Thread in the new sensor, do not allow the wire to become too twist as you can risk breaking the conductor.

Reconnect the plug, clip the wire into place so it doesn’t rub on any components and your vehicle is ready for the road again. If a check engine light is present, this will need to be cleared as well.

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