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etrailer | MagnaFlow Ceramic Catalytic Converter Installation - 2010 Nissan Altima

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Speaker 1: Today on this 2010 Nissan Altima, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install a Magnaflow ceramic catalytic converter, part number MF49504. Now the reason you're shopping around for replacement catalytic converter for your vehicle is, you either have a couple different things going on.The converter itself could be clogged. You could be having a check engine light because it's not as efficient as it used to be anymore and you need to replace it so you can pass emissions. Or, like in our case, the converter assembly, which has the flex pipe built into it, has developed a leak and we have excessive exhaust noise which is why we're replacing our converter assembly today. Now that you've heard it before with the original catalytic converter in place with the broken flex pipe and the new replacement catalytic converter in, you'll notice how much quieter it is.Here's what our converter looks like installed. As you'll notice, it's a direct fit, one piece replacement for our catalytic converter assembly on our vehicle.

It goes all the way from our factory exhaust manifold and primary catalytic converter. It includes our flex pipe. It comes back, has our secondary catalytic converter and then the flange where it goes to our exhaust resonator on our factory exhaust system. Now, not only is this designed to be a direct replacement for a damaged or worn out factory exhaust component, but the high flow ceramic catalytic converter can even add a little bit of performance to your vehicle.Now when we compare this to the factory converter, right here underneath our sub frame, you can see how large of a diameter of the pipe that we have and this is because it's inaudible 00:02:00 bent. Here on the factory piece where it's bent to go underneath the sub frame, you can see how it's crushed down.

This is going to reduce airflow and it can reduce performance. Another great thing about this converter assembly is that the converter itself is EPA approved and compliant in 49 states and Canada. So you don't have to worry about failing emissions or your safety inspections for having a missing converter or one that won't pass a smog test. You're good to go in every state in the United States, except for California.Now while our converter itself is ceramic material on the inside, all of our piping is stainless steel. What this is going to allow us to have is exhaust piping that's going to last a very long time.

It won't rust out anywhere near as fast as how the factory one did. To begin our install, we're going to find the catalytic converter on our vehicle. In this case, replacing the secondary catalytic converter and not the primary. So underneath the vehicle, basically right below where our front passenger and driver seat are, this is our secondary catalytic converter. In order to get the old converter out of the vehicle, we're going to remove this brace right here that's underneath it, just so we have a little bit more room.It's held in place with four 13 millimeter bolts.

Notice there is an arrow on it that faces towards the front of the car, so just keep that in mind. Now in our converter assembly, we do have an oxygen sensor. We need to unplug this before we lower it. So we'll start by first getting the wire out of this clip. We'll use a flathead screwdriver to pry it open as we get the wires out. A little Christmas tree fastener here that holds the plug in place. If we use a flathead screwdriver we can pop it off of that and pull it down where we can see a tab right here that we need to press on to unplug it. As we press down on it. We've got to inaudible 00:04:12 I'm going to use my finger, then I can pull the plug to separate it.Now at the front of our converter assembly, we'll have three 17 millimeter bolts where it bolts to our factory exhaust manifold and primary converter assembly. When you remove these, it's always a good idea to use a little bit of spray lubricant on the threads to help it come out. We've already had this soaking overnight before. So they should come out fairly easily for us. Now at the back side of our converter assembly, we have two nuts on studs that hold it to our exhaust resignator assembly. Now, these nuts are going to get very rusty underneath your vehicle because they are exposed to the most moisture and salt corrosion from the roads.Now, you can try using penetrating oil, but more than likely you're going to need the blue tipped wrench, also known as a torch, to heat these up in order to get them off. You can use a map gas torch like this which is readily available at most hardware stores. So we're goi

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21 декабря 2018 г. 11:57:11
00:09:36
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