How to Use A Pinch & Crimp Block For Climbing Training

As many of you may have noticed, we have been doing quite a lot of training ourselves and with our clients on a Crimp and Pinch Block. First up, those eagle-eyed (eagle-eared?!) people out there may notice that Ollie called this a "Travel Block" - this was from a while back before we'd decided what exactly to call the product... it's exactly the same as what's in the shop right now as the "Crimp and Pinch Block!

Ok, so why use a lifting block? Why not just hang off a fingerboard? There's a few good reasons for this (some or all of them might apply to you!)

1. If you're doing a lot of finger strength training, it's a VERY good idea to vary the arm and shoulder position. Lifting allows us to do this.

2. Pinch training is a bit of an "unknown" still and whilst there's a few climbers out there that have looked at it, there's good rationale for working specifically on this grip position. The thumb is a great digit to use in many, many scenarios!

3. Variety is both the spice of life and the mark of a well-rounded athlete. A good year-round finger strength regimen will work not just a single grip. Pinch, open 4, closed 4, slopers etc are all part of the game. You might not do ALL of them in a single season if you want to focus, but adding variety is a good way to not overly stress certain joint structures. If you're one of those "full crimpers" on the wall, get your training done away from that grip type!

4. The Crimp and Pinch Block can also be used for low intensity aerobic stimulus as well. We like to use a protocol involving VERY light finger curls, moving from an open 4 position to a half crimp position. Please note that we are NOT advocates of this exercise at high intensities except for rare case-by-case situations!

5. Finally, this is a portable and non-fixed form of finger strength training. You won't need to wreck the walls in your rented (or owned?!) accommodation and it requires very little set up. It's also great as a portable warm up fingerboard....

Exercises and methods covered in this video:

1. Lifting method
2. Testing and benchmarking
3. Max strength
4. Anaerobic capacity repeaters
5. Finger curls

Don't forget you can find the testing session and max strength on our Crimpd App - link below!
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: https://latticetraining.com/plans/

Download the Crimpd App:
App store - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimpd/id1252333138
Google Play - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.crimpd.ui

Видео How to Use A Pinch & Crimp Block For Climbing Training канала Lattice Training