Comfort Sewing a Pair of Trousers: Adding Pockets and Zippers

Trousers can seem like a daunting project to take on, but with a few tips and tricks the process can be much smoother! While there is no one correct way to set in pockets or fly-front zippers, these are my most commonly used versions. And, even if you aren't planning on making a pair of trousers any time soon, the knowledge of how to pattern and set pockets into any garment is endlessly useful!

Since nearly all of the clothing I make is patterned by way of drafting, none of the accessory pieces are provided. Understanding how to pattern pockets and fly-fronts based on a plain paper pattern, or even an existing garment, is essential to my garments. I may not be able to find many pants off the rack with substantial pockets, but I will certainly not skip them when I'm sewing!

Extra tips:

- For determining your pocket size I rely heavily on the size of the object I'm most likely to put in it (aka my cell phone). The 11" from the waist length was determined by measuring to my hip crease when seated and adding in enough length for the phone from there. No one wants to have to empty their pockets to sit down! The width is also big enough to manage my phone sideways, but ends up being about 2/3 of my trouser front. Much more and it'll interfere with the center front.

- I like to use glazed cotton or cotton pocketing for my interiors whenever possible. They don't stretch, which is very important for any waist facings, and are strong enough to support the stress of the zipper. Flatlining a layer to the facing will prevent damage to lighter weight wools, but adds very little bulk.

- Anchor your pocket well. If you aren't using a waistband, be sure to not only attach the pocket at the top, but also at the bottom of the facing. The facing acts as the band and you don't want to encourage it to collapse and pull down under the weight.

- Any time you have a folded edge (the top of the trousers, pocket edge, fly front edge, etc) be sure to top-stitch the seam allowance towards the lining side. This prevents it from rolling and exposing the lining.

- If your trouser waist is often under a lot of stress, you can extend the fly front at the top just slightly to the side and add a buttonhole, with the button on the facing.
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Видео Comfort Sewing a Pair of Trousers: Adding Pockets and Zippers канала Nicole Rudolph