Mixed Climbing in Kandersteg, Elementarteilchen

Frederic Manuel & Jon Murua
Elementarteilchen, Breitwangflue, Kandersteg
ED+ M8
10.1.2021

Transcript:

300 metres of ice.
Sustained and overhanging.
This is Breitwangflue!

This sector in Kandersteg offers some of the hardest ice and mixed climbing routes in the Alps.
Flying Circus, Mach 3 or Crack Baby are some of the popular lines here that many people dream with climbing.

Check my channel for the video of Beta Block Super. The magnificent level 7 route I climbed last year in this same sector.
And don't forget to like and subscribe ;)

Breitwangflue is synonym of adventure.
Climbing any route here is a serious endeavour worth being the goal of the season.

I didn't have any goals this season, in fact, I was happy enough to be recovered from my ankle surgery and be able to climb something.

I had trained hard my upper body during the recovery. I did everything I could without using my feet and I learnt to do figure 4s and to pull hard with the arms.
I did a lot of overhanging dry tooling and I felt strong so I thought I could push my limits this season.

I convinced my friend Frédéric to visit Breitwangflue and climb Elementarteilchen.
A delicate mixed route with a crux M8.

It was a cold day, -14°C at the car park.
We took the heavy winter clothing and started the long approach which takes about 2 hours to climb the 1000m of elevation.

The wall is impressive from the bottom. The other climbers look tiny half way through the wall. Just being there watching it makes the adrenaline flow.

The first pitch was easy. Not ideal conditions, but ok. Frederick led with with no problems.

The second pitch felt really hard.
It was long and sustained with brittle ice.
I got really pumped up after this pitch.

I chose to keep going and to connect the second and third pitch in a full rope length pitch.
The rope drag made it hard to progress and I arrived exhausted at the anchor. My lack of fitness was evident.

Frédérick led the mixed M7 smoothly.
Awesome 3D climbing!
Delicate moves using the ice here, the rock there and finding acceptable protections.
I loved this pitch.

Unfortunately, I was so tired that I didn't feel strong enough to lead the crux M8.
Frédéric tried it, but he was also struggling so pretty disappointed, we decided to bail.

That was very sad, but it was obviously too early after the surgery to engage in such a route. At least we enjoyed the M7 pitch which was gorgeous.
Music credits:

Music: Sunset On Terra by HYBRID V is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...​
Support by RFM - NCM: https://bit.ly/2xGHypM​

Music: Summer - Bensound
https://www.bensound.com​
Support by RFM - NCM: https://bit.ly/2xGHypM​

Music: Slow Motion - Bensound
https://www.bensound.com​
Support by RFM - NCM: https://bit.ly/2xGHypM​

https://youtu.be/82hJffyJ5hY

Видео Mixed Climbing in Kandersteg, Elementarteilchen канала Jon Murua