A Primer on Climbing Anchors

This video is a flood of information about anchors intended to help new climbers know how to evaluate an anchor for themselves, rather than blindly trust whomever they are learning from. It's a lot of information, so watch as much or as little as you are interested in, and remember that there's more than one right way to do things.

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Table of Contents for this video

Principles:
SERENE: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=40s
Considerations beyond just SERENE: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=14m40s
Cordelette Materials & Knots: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=26m31s

Rigging examples:
Standard cordelette anchor: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=3m7s
Cordelette around a tree: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=12m57s
2-piece cordelette-style anchor: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=22m12s
Two separate slings: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=29m52s
Sliding X: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=31m54s
Sliding X with Limiter Knots: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=35m24s
The Quad: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=37m36s
Two Quickdraws: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=40m46s
Using the rope itself: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=42m49s
The Equalette: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=46m8s
The ACR anchor: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=48m53s

Using anchors:
Rappel anchors: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=52m44s
Extend over an edge: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=59m32s
Top-roping: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=1h42s
Connecting yourself during multipitch: https://youtu.be/3SkCojauHto?t=1h2m

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For more information and further reading:

Climbing Anchors, John Long: https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072
Climbing Anchors, Craig Luebben: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

A great paper about testing tech cords: https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf

Tests of the EDK/flat-overhand knot: https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

More about Personal Anchors: https://www.dropbox.com/s/c094sq4fwk9q1i5/Your_Personal_Anchor.pdf?dl=0

More about the properties of nylon vs dyneema: https://vimeo.com/27293337

A big thank you to the author of this heart-wrenching accident report, your story convinced me to improve my habits and use redundant biners at the powerpoint, which is something I had not always done before: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1133830/TR_Tragedy_at_Alpental_Kiddie_

Видео A Primer on Climbing Anchors канала Rob Busack