Range Rover P38 # 038 - New Front Brakes - Drag and Track Link

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Today new discs / rotors along with brake caliper carrier, brake calipers and pads go onto the front axle. Note my hub has remains of broken off disc / rotor bolts so I wasn't able to install the locking bolt (SF108201 one each side) which should be there. I'll try and weld on another bolt at a later time and extract the remains so that I can fit the bolts.

Front discs / rotors part number is NTC8780. One for each side.

Brake caliper carrier should be torqued to 165 Nm with 19mm "Torx" spanner and 2x FTC2996 bolts on each side. I prefer to replace them as they are cheap and makes fitting and later removal easier than with older rusted bolts.

When fitting the brake hose to the caliper (STC1915 right side, STC1916 left side) remember to put one brass washer on each side of the brake hose connector. Torque to 32 Nm with 15 mm spanner.

Properly clean the carrier so that the new pads (SFP500150 - 1 set for both sides) don't stick and causes the brakes to hang on or wear uneven. The caliper bolts are torqued to 30 Nm with 12 mm spanner. Note the orientation of the guide sleeves. The flat edge should mate with the caliper. Only two caliper bolts comes with the pads, so I opted to replace only the lower ones which are removed if only the pads are to be replaced in the future. I reused to upper old bolt for now but will order new ones next time the pads need replacement.

Adjust the length of the drag link to match the old drag link if the tracking was ok. That way you'll be very close to the correct centring of the steering wheel.

Putting on the front drag link from the steering box requires 2x ANR1000 lock nuts. Always use new nuts. Torque end nuts to 50 Nm with a 19 mm spanner. You'll need to hold the ball joint with an allen key (5mm) when tightening. Tighten the drag link clamps with two 13 mm spanners and one 15 mm spanner and one 17 mm spanner. But don't over do them yet as we'll need to adjust it when the wheels are back on.

Attach the steering damper using a new ANR1000 lock nut, 19 mm spanner and a 15 mm spanner for the bolt head. Torque to 50 Nm.

Do the same length adjustment for the rear track rod matching the lenght to the old as best you can. The track rod comes with lock nuts which are torqued to 50 Nm using a 19 mm spanner. The adjustment clamps should be to the right side of the vehicle (left-hand drive). Tighten the clamps, but not too much as we'll need to fine adjust a bit after the wheels are on. The toe-in / toe-out is adjusted with the track rod.

Then it's just a matter of fitting the road wheels back on and torque the nuts to 108 Nm.

I did remove the under engine plastic acoustic cover so that I could clean of old oil spill from the rocker cover and turbo-piping. Just undo the 4 Philips screws 90 degree to loosen the clips and drop the cover.

To fill up the front differential / final drive I used 75W-90 as specified and added 1.7 liters through the top fill hole after removing the 1/2" socket plug. When installing the bottom and top plugs I add some blue Hylomar as the workshop manual specifies to make a good seal.

Next week I'll tackle the rear brakes (discs / rotors, pads, calipers and hoses) and center exhaust silencer. That should pretty much make us done under and outside the car. We might get time to start on some under the hood fixes too (camcover gasket, diesel filter, o-rings, oil filter, alternator...).

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