Woodturning - Tulipwood Coral - Bowl Pierced the Easy Way! - An Interlude!

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Those of you from my era will no doubt remember the BBC interludes that were shown between programmes. The most familiar being the potters wheel and the windmills. This is my 21st century homage to times gone by when life was calmer and slower. Rest your feet for a while.

I've had this warped piece of Tulip wood for some time. I think it's settled down now and unlikely to move any more so I'm going to use it as a test piece for a project I have in mind. As it's warped and very slim I'm mounting it with a glue chuck so I can utilise as much of it's 27mm thickness as I can.

My glue chuck has a chamfer which is the same thickness as my parting tool. This aids a safe separation which I will demonstrate here. It's a technique which once mastered can save tears as you watch your completed project bounces off the walls in it's bid to escape the lathe.

I first take the blank to round, then true up the face. A few lines with the compass are just to help me visualise the proportions. Using a bowl gauge with swept back wings lets me take out the centre with just a few passes. Knowing, because of the warp on the back, I'm going to lose some more thickness later on, I play safe and define the gentle curve of the bowl with a very sharp scraper.

I want the rim to sit a little low of the lip of the bowl so I take it down a few millimetres.
When I have the shape I'm happy with I remove some of the bulk from the back. And take the rim down to around 5mm thick with the parting tool all the while eyeballing the bed rails to help me stay straight. I sand down to 320 grit and to a fine finish with Yorkshire Grit.

This is the beauty of having the chamfer the same width as the parting tool on the glue chuck. I go in and remove most of the glue with some force. The friction generates heat and softens the remaining glue so I can just peel the work off the chuck.

I shape the bottom of the bowl to reflect the top and put a deeper than normal concave in the bottom just in case the wood has not settled completely and still wants to move a little further.

On the scroll saw the spiral blade allows me to keep the bowl level by tucking my fingers under the rim. Something I could not do if I had to turn and twist the piece around if I'd used a straight blade. I cutting the holes from the outside edge and work my way inwards. The spiral blade doubles as a file and I can shape the hole to my liking and achieve a nice clean line. Once all 125 holes are cut I sand away all the fuzzes on the underside.

As I don't want the paint to work it's way through the fibres of the wood and appear where I don't want it a liberal coating of sanding sealer is applied on the insides of the holes. That should do the job. I remove and globs of sealer from the holes with the airline before moving on to the colour which is Cadmium Red, an Artists colour which is stable and light fast.

I pack out my pins on the bowl jaws so I can grip the rim of the bowl. The bottom is not sitting flat to the jaws but at this speed, around 380 RPM, I'm OK just with light sanding.

A good couple of coats with spray lacquer makes the wood and colour sing together. Some Yorkshire grit puts a super shine on the finish and the job's a good'un

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