Fat Bike Crankset Upgrade (Square Taper to Integrated) & Trail Test

Changing our Fat Bike Crank https://www.firstcomponents.com/cranksets/fat-bike/ from square taper to integrated.

Watch the video for the complete process of installing an integrated crankset on a fatbike as replacement for a square taper bottom bracket and crankset.

Using a chain hook to help cut the chain is the first step in getting the square taper crank removed and a new integrated crank installed. Much easier to manage the cutting if both sides of the chain are restrained from springing apart when the chain tool removes the chain rivet. This is a carbon bike with an awesome finish so carefully lifting the chain clear of the frame is important to avoid scratches to either the paint or the clearcoat.

Remove the crank bolts with a standard 8mm allen wrench and the pedals with a 6mm allen wrench. Then a crank puller is required to pull the cranks off the square taper spindles. A little sewing machine oil or similar light oil makes installing the crank puller into the crank and removing it from the crank later much easier. You'll also reduce the chance you might damage the crank threads. Using a crank puller with an integrated handle such as this one means only one or two turns will have the crank removed from the spindle.

Give the bb shell a wipe over to remove any old grease or dirt. Then grease the bb shell along with the left and right side bearings cups of the integrated crank external (outboard) bearings to be installed. Installing the bottom bracket cups requires care that a cup is not cross-threaded into the bb shell. This is easy to do. Make sure any resistance in turning the bearing cups into the bb shell is not due to a cross-threaded situation. With the bearing cups installed each cup should be tightened to a torque level of between 35 and 50 nM. 40 - 45 is adequate.

Installing the crank is easier by smearing a little grease on the crank where it contacts each bearing's inner race. Slip the non-drive side crank (arm) into position. Then fasten the crank bolt. The crank bolt's function is only to move the crank arm snugly against the bottom bracket race. Using a 10mm allen key makes this easy. No need to tighten though. Finger tight (which is a maximum of 15 nM) is all that is required to secure the crank arm into position. The pinch bolts require tightening to between 12 and 14 nM. The correct technique is to tighten each pinch bolt a little in succession. Flipping the crank between each bolt, dropping the torque wrench driver into the bolt then turning slightly is the way to proceed. Once the wrench clicks when the torque level is reached, you need to continue for 2-3 turns making sure the torque level reached is true.

A quick way of reinstalling the chain is by feeding the chain into the derailleur cage under the upper jockey wheel and over the lower jockey wheel then pulling it through almost to the end. You take that other end and pull it back through keeping the chain clear of the frame at the same time. Then wrap it around the cassette and run it up across the top of the chainring, then down and around to meet the other end which is protruding from the deraillear cage and lower derailleur pulley.

Rejoining the chain with a quick release link is more easily done without the help of a chain hook. Place each link plate on opposite sides to each other. Pull the ends of the chain towards each other. Pressure from your left index finger for the left side and right thumb on the right side keeps the link plates in position as the chain tension increases. Locate the pin of each plate inside the opposite one. Use master link pliers to lock the link securely. Modern quick release links have a safety locking boss that makes locking the link very difficult without a tool. Once the link "clicks" into position you can be certain it is locked and cannot come apart without equal force. Reinstalling the pedals completes the whole process. The cranks have been replaced and the bike is ready for the trail.

The trail test is important. The climbs put the bottom bracket and the cranks under stress. If there anything amiss with the install then tell-tale clicks or creaks will indicate more adjustment is necessary.

Видео Fat Bike Crankset Upgrade (Square Taper to Integrated) & Trail Test канала First Components