k2 The Savage Mountain|| History of K2 ! Urdu Hindi

K2 also became popularly known as the Savage Mountain after George Bell—a climber on the 1953 American Expedition—told reporters, "It's a savage mountain that tries to kill you."[6] Of the five highest mountains in the world, K2 is the deadliest; approximately one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit.[6][7] Also occasionally known as Chhogori, or Mount Godwin-Austen,[8] other nicknames for K2 are The King of Mountains and The Mountaineers' Mountain,[9] as well as The Mountain of Mountains after prominent Italian climber Reinhold Messner titled his book about K2 the same.[10]
The summit was reached for the first time by the Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, on the 1954 Italian Expedition led by Ardito Desio. In January 2021, K2 became the final eight-thousander to be summited in the winter; the mountaineering feat was accomplished by a team of Nepalese climbers, led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.[11][12]
K2 is the only 8,000+ metre peak that has never been climbed from its eastern face.[13] Ascents have almost always been made in July and August, which are typically the warmest times of the year; K2's more northern location makes it more susceptible to inclement and colder weather.[14] The peak has now been climbed by almost all of its ridges. Although the summit of Everest is at a higher altitude, K2 is a more difficult and dangerous climb, due in part to its more inclement weather.[15] As of June 2018, only 367 people have completed the ascent to its summit.[6] There have been 91 deaths during attempted climbs, according to the list maintained on the list of deaths on eight-thousanders.
The mountain was first surveyed by a British survey team in 1856. Team member Thomas Montgomerie designated the mountain "K2" for being the second peak of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4, and K5, but were eventually renamed Masherbrum, Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, and Gasherbrum I, respectively.[33] In 1892, Martin Conway led a British expedition that reached "Concordia" on the Baltoro Glacier.[34]
The first serious attempt to climb K2 was undertaken in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein, Aleister Crowley, Jules Jacot-Guillarmod, Heinrich Pfannl, Victor Wessely, and Guy Knowles via the Northeast Ridge. In the early 1900s, modern transportation did not exist in the region: it took "fourteen days just to reach the foot of the mountain".[35] After five serious and costly attempts, the team reached 6,525 metres (21,407 ft)[36]—although considering the difficulty of the challenge, and the lack of modern climbing equipment or weatherproof fabrics, Crowley's statement that "neither man nor beast was injured" highlights the pioneering spirit and bravery of the attempt. The failures were also attributed to sickness (Crowley was suffering the residual effects of malaria), a combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor weather conditions—of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for the longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided clear weather.[37]
The next expedition to K2, in 1909, led by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, reached an elevation of around 6,250 metres (20,510 ft) on the South East Spur, now known as the Abruzzi Spur (or Abruzzi Ridge). This would eventually become part of the standard route, but was abandoned at the time due to its steepness and difficulty. After trying and failing to find a feasible alternative route on the West Ridge or the North East Ridge, the Duke declared that K2 would never be climbed, and the team switched its attention to Chogolisa, where the Duke came within 150 metres (490 ft) of the summit before being driven back by a storm.[38]
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