Climbing Grossglockner Normal Route - Großglockner Normalweg

Großglockner Normalweg Von Stüdlhütte (Kals am Großglockner)

Climbing Grossglockner from Stüdlhütte (Normal route from Kals am Großglockner )

Uspon na Grossglockner sa Stüdlhütte normalnom rutom (Kals am Großglockner)

Grossglockner via normale da Stüdlhütte (Kals am Großglockner)

The Grossglockner is one of the "to do"-mountains to climb (as Matterhorn and Mont Blanc) once in a lifetime.
The normal route is more difficult than many other major mountains of the alps.

Description of the normal route from Kals am Großglockner:
From the car park at the end of the Kalser Glocknerstraße a scenic route leads up to the Lucknerhütte. The path goes in one direction only from the Lucknerhaus so it cannot be missed. The path is a small road at this point.
From the Lucknerhütte the path becomes smaller making is a hiking trail instead of a road. The hike is quite easy (T2) towards the Stüdlhütte.
Shortly after passing the Lucknerhütte a yellow signpost point in two directions. You have to take a left here (follow signs 'Stüdlhütte').
The trail to the right goes directly to the Erzherzog- Johann- Hütte and is called the Mürztaler Weg.
Although the hike is fairly easy at this point, before arriving at the Stüdlhütte the trail becomes steeper but not difficult.
At the Stüdlhütte you could rest and get some food and drinks.
For guided tours this is the point to meet up with the guide.

From the Stüdlhütte the marked trail goes up in the direction of Grossglockner.
Follow once again the yellow signposts that say ''Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte''. The route remains easy until you reach the start of the Ködnitzkees glacier, at this point the marked trail stoppes and mostly a path of footprints continues on the glacier.
From this point on it is wise to rope up and put on crampons.
The first part is a walk over the glacier onto the rocky ridge on the east side of the Ködnitzkees. This is an easy glacier walk, watch out for crevasses though. One you crossed the glacier towards the east you will enter the rocks and leave the glacier.
From this point on it is a rocky scramble (grade I, fixed ropes) until you will reach the Adlersruhe at 3450m, on which the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is located. The scrambling is easy, but gets more tricky in wet conditions when the rocks can become slippery. After this nice scrambling part you will eventually reach the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte.
When spending the night here, evening views are great in case of good weather.

From the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte the route goes up to the so called Bahnhof.
The first part is an easy snow walk.
From the Bahnhof on the route gets steeper. Eventually you will enter the Glocknerleitl.
The Glocknerleitl is at its steepest point 40 degrees. Watch out here, it can be icy. At the top of the Glocknerleitl the Sattele is reached (the end of the snow-ice flank).
At this point starts the rocky ridge to the summit. When there is no snow/ice present it is a possibility to take of crampons here (late summer). If not, be sure to leave them on, the ridge can contain some steep ice. From this point on sicherungsstangen (fixed safety poles) are present until the summit.
The poles are located at about every 15 meters on the route. Continue upwards on the ridge, this includes some climbing in grade I/II (UIAA).
Shortly you will reach the fore summit of Grossglockner names Kleinglockner (3770m). After this point the routes descents shortly into the Glocknerscharte: the saddle between Klein - and Grossglockner.
The Glocknerscharte is very narrow with steep drops on each side, so watch out when passing here.
After passing the Glocknerscharte, there is some climbing again in the I & II grade (UIAA) until you reach the summit of Grossglockner with its magnificent summit cross.
Descent is the same way back.
Time:
From Lucknerhaus (1918 m) to Stüdlhütte (2802 m) : 2,5 hours ; 884 m
From Stüdlhütte (2802 m) to Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 m) : 2,5 hours ; 652m
From Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3451m) to Grossglockner (3798 m) : 1,5hour ; 344 m
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Видео Climbing Grossglockner Normal Route - Großglockner Normalweg канала Alan Crljenko