How A Suit Should Fit II - Secrets About Suits Nobody Talks About

Check out the Complete Guide with twice as much information o how suits should fit no matter if you are going for a slim fit or regular fit here https://gentl.mn/how-a-suit-should-fit-ii

Missed the first How A Suit Should Fit video? Click here: https://youtu.be/ZQzvKaqu8gY
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While most people look at the front, a back can really tell you if a jacket fits perfectly or not. First, the top of your back right underneath the collar; you shouldn't have any lines that are horizontal or vertical. Same thing all the way down. The only area where you can have a few wrinkles is around your armpit underneath the shoulders simply because you need that for the range movement, otherwise, if you see a suit from the back and it's very clean and hangs very neat and the vents don't gap, I can bet with you that the rest of the suit will fit well because something like that will never fit like that off the rack. You'll always have to have either some alterations or it's a made to measure or bespoke garment.

We move to the front of the jacket. You ideally want to see an hourglass shape or a v-shape on top and then a skirt that drapes slightly out in the bottom, it's very flattering. In the US, there used to be a sack suit style but that's not really flattering because it makes you actually look like a potato sack. If you see X wrinkles, that means your jacket is too tight especially around the buttoning point. If you see vertical wrinkles in the front on your chest, that means it's too big.

One thing that's often never talked about is balance and by that, I mean the length and the proportions of the front and the back when looked at from the side. As I mentioned before, most of the time, the back is shorter in the front and getting it completely level is very hard to achieve and usually only something you find with bespoke tailors.

One thing that has a huge impact on the way your jacket looks are the front quarters and how they're cut. Traditionally, the quarters a much more closed which in my opinion provides an old man look versus if you have more open rounded quarters that are cut up slightly, It provides a certain dynamic. Now, if you open your quarters too much, you may actually end up seeing the tip of your tie or maybe even your dress shirt from underneath the buttoning point which is a bad look. So you always have to coordinate the quarters with the rise of your pants. If you have more open quarters, you want higher rise pants. If you have a lower and more closed quarters, it doesn't matter which brings us to the next point.

which is the buttoning point. If your tie pokes out from underneath the buttoning point, the fit is off. In most cases, the buttoning point should be around your natural waist which is usually the belly button were slightly above the buttoning point can have a huge impact in how you're perceived visually. Let's say you're a shorter guy, you can slightly elevate that buttoning point because it will give you the appearance of having slightly longer legs. The same is true for my body type; I have a long torso and relatively short legs, so I bring up the buttoning point ever so slightly, that way I look pretty proportional I get that one to one aspect ratio in my length and I'm just dapper and people would never assume that I have shorter legs than another man of my height.
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Видео How A Suit Should Fit II - Secrets About Suits Nobody Talks About канала Gentleman's Gazette