Venice - doomed to ruin and yet so alive

World-famous and beautiful, Venice has attracted people magically for centuries. La Serenissima, the sublime, is what the Italians call it. On stilts she sits enthroned in the middle of the lagoon, defying the tides and the rush of visitors year after year. Many have already sung of the demise of this legendary place.

In Venice, women are often at the helm. Vogalonga is the name of the Venetian sports competition in which people row standing up. A tradition also cultivated by Guilia and Elena. They train hard against a breathtaking backdrop, because the annual women's regatta will soon take place. Then the 15 boats, each with six rowers, will be accompanied by the fire brigade, ambulance and police.

If they don't exactly close the canals for a race, the police in Venice do what they do in Germany: they flash vehicles, just on the water. Anyone who races through Venice at more than seven km/h gets a parking ticket from policewoman Lorenza Mariutti. And a clear message. Because this is not only about safety, but also about the fact that the resulting waves gnaw away at the foundations of the palaces. Danger of collapse! Only there is never traffic jam here, not even in the morning when there is rush hour traffic, when couriers, garbage collectors and fishing boats are on their way. The Rialto market sells fresh fish every day. Moleche, crabs from the lagoon, which can only be eaten for a few days, are a local delicacy. Then, when they drop their tank, which grows back quickly. Who catches the animals in this period can earn good money. Domenico Rossi is one of the crab fishermen on the island of Burano. With his self-built traps he gets the delicacy from the knee-deep sea. The Venetians hang on to their traditional cuisine. The island Sant'Erasmo is the vegetable garden of the city. Artichokes, radicchio, onions, everything that grows here is said to taste particularly good, thanks to the salt content of air and water.

Carlo and Claudio Finotello not only grow the vegetables, they even deliver them to their customers' doorsteps. At sunset, the brothers drive through the lagoon towards San Marco in their fully loaded boat. People are already waiting at many bridges and get exactly what they want: regional, seasonal, fresh. And as stress-free as possible. Like so much in Venice. Because la Serenissima also means as much as the relaxed.

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