* How to Start Infrared Photography on a Budget. We sell Infrared and Astro converted cameras

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Infrared photography with a stock camera
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The fastest way to try out infrared photography is to buy some infrared filters and use your camera with a tripod.
This is probably the fastest way, but there are some limitations. Moving objects like trees in the wind will be blurry due to using a long exposure.
If you use manual settings, some cameras have restrictions and show exposure simulation on the screen. This is inconvenient as the screen will be dark and it will be difficult to frame the image. This limitation is only on DSLRs so mirror less cameras are not affected.

There are many infrared filters available. The good for a start would be Zomei filters. Later on, you can buy a 720nm Hoya IR filter.

To start taking infrared images with an unmodified camera we will need a tripod, an infrared filter and obviously a digital camera. Cameras with a very small sensor probably will not suit this purpose. I have tried the Nikon P7700 and the results are not good at all.
The Olympus OM-D E-M5 is a better option. Everything Canon with APS-C sensor like Rebel T5 or 1200D will do an excellent job.

Here is an image from a stock Canon 1100D with a 720nm filter.
And here is the processed image.
How to process infrared images without Photoshop or Light Room

Here is a step by step guide.
You will need to get Gimp. It is free.
Open your file as a layer in Gimp: File, Open as Layers.

Click Colors, Auto, White Balance.

Click Colors, Components, Channel Mixer. Swap red and blue channels as shown in the image.

Adjust a little red and blue in each channel as you like.

Duplicate layer by right clicking on Layer then New From Visible.

Click Colors, Auto, Equalize. This will blow up the image a bit. Adjust the opacity of this layer on the right side to about 50 percent.

Optional: Go to Colors, Curves and increase contrast by dragging the left side of the curve down.

How to Modify the Canon 1100D (X50, T3) to a full spectrum

Why the Canon 1100D. This camera is cheap, easily convertible and has a ton of available accessories on the market. It still produces good pictures even by today’s standards.

We even can use it for astrophotography and yes, there are tons of clip-in filters available like Optolong CLS (city light suppression).

The easiest way to work with the camera conversion is by wearing cotton gloves and using Lindy screwdrivers. Unscrew all the screws that are on the outside. Remove the back panel. You will find this PCB board. You need to disconnect all the ribbon cables and there also is a thick cable needed disconnecting.

After that unscrew PCB screws.

Unscrew screws holding the sensor.

Here is the sensor. We will need to unscrew those two screws also. If you worked to this point with cotton gloves, it is better to take them off. This is because these gloves spread cotton particles and we do not want this to happen near the sensor.

Use a small flat screwdriver to get underneath the black plastic and lift it. Try lifting it from all the sides.

Try to keep the front of the sensor facing down. This way you will avoid dust particle contamination.

This is it. Inspect the surface of the sensor with a powerful LED flashlight in a dark room. Remove dust particles that you see with a photo blower. Put the sensor back and assemble the camera.

The sensor sits on three shims. Those are usually not the same thickness. They use them to level the sensor. So, a good idea is to leave them there.

I would also suggest converting the Canon Rebel T3i (or 600D), though, this camera has the sensor fitted on springs so you would need a gauge to level the sensor properly.

Basically, if you have a piece of metal that fits in the gap between the sensor and chassis, I think you could level it properly.
Also, you can try a caliper.

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