Nathan Florence Discusses John John, Mom John, and Surfing as an Addiction - The Inertia

While his brother John lines walls with trophies and (happily) deals with adoring fans, Nathan quietly goes about the business of surfing massive waves with close friends, and there’s nothing on earth he loves more. “There’s just a very specific high you get,” he told me. “You’re with your friends, you just survived a 15-foot Chopes paddle swell, you’re having a beer at the end of the day. You’re on this life high from the adrenaline. That’s what we kind of live for.’

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Видео Nathan Florence Discusses John John, Mom John, and Surfing as an Addiction - The Inertia канала The Inertia