How To Climb Ice Wall Patch |Fixed Rope Technique | Abseiling or aid climbing technique | ABVIMAS

Fixed Rope technique is used for climbing difficult & steep section of ice and rock through which team has to go up-down multiple times or when we have amateur climbers in team.
OR
A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.

It is slightly different from sequence climbing because it is done by professional for amateur climbers while sequence climbing is done by only professional.

PREPARATION - is only done by professional and experienced climbers to avoid any lethal mistake.
well preparation is required including carrying equipments like waterproof gloves, ice pitton ,ice axe , carabiner,rope sling, tape sling, well tied crampons etc.

TECHNIQUE - in this 1st climber move with fixing rope who is belayed by 2nd climber in the meantime.1st piton should be near base to arrest rope suddenly.After every piton is inserted climber has to self anchor oneself and then coiled the remaining rope from second climber .when there is only 1-2 meter rope is left then 1st climber tie any anchoring knot in ice piton & 2nd climber ascent with the help of jumar.after reaching anchor 2nd climber secure himself by self anchoring.Then lead climber give coiled rope to 2nd climber ,free self anchor and again start climbing which is belayed by 2nd climber.This cycle is repeated in this process of ascent & descent.

PRECAUTION-
1-Gap between two ice piton anchors is depend solely on steepness.gentle steep-15-18feet
moderate steep: 12-15feet
highly steep: 8-10feet
2 - ice piton should be inserted properly upto neck

3 - Bring rope in tension or stretch before attaching jumar & put self anchor in front of jumar in this technique.

4 - Only one climber should be there in single anchor although it could be two when they exchange coiled rope but not for a longer period of time.

5 - Make water diversion channel if there is harsh sun to avoid loosening of anchor

Видео How To Climb Ice Wall Patch |Fixed Rope Technique | Abseiling or aid climbing technique | ABVIMAS канала Camping Diaries