The X-trail Files # 19 'Is the T30 DCi a practical daily driver?'

The X-Trail Files #19 'Is the T30 a practical daily driver?'

The short answer is 'yes', with certain provisos;
Make sure you buy a good car to start with - in other words don't buy someone else's failed project or knackered, rusty cast off. Look for a car with evidence of a full service history and a careful owner. This applies to any car - no matter what the make.

The main issues to be aware of:
The Di and the DCI diesels (and petrol models) use timing chains. Regular oil and filter changes are vital for a long lived chain and engine and less risk of chain stretch or engine-trashing failure. So don't skimp on oil and filters because replacing even a worn chain is a big job. A snapped chain will mean replacement second-hand engine or scrapping the car. Timing chains start rattling when they're worn or the hydraulic tensioners and slipper guides are worn. Ignore at your peril.
Flywheel is a dual-mass type and as such expensive to replace which will happen when the clutch needs changing - so don't pay full price for an Xtrail with a wooden feeling clutch action or the biting point is way up high when the pedal is almost in it's resting position. Even if you can change a clutch at home, it's still a big job and DMF's aren't cheap - even from aftermarket suppliers. So if you are thinking of buying an Xtrail with a worn clutch, either negotiate hard on the price to have it replaced (anywhere between £600 to £1200 at a garage incl parts) or walk away and find a better car.
The common rail diesels won't tolerate dirty or clogged up fuel filters. So don't skimp on servicing because it only takes a trashed HP pump or a damaged injector to wipe out any savings from buying a diesel in the first place. This rule applies to ANY make of diesel and not just Nissan.
EGR valves can stick and cause running issues and excess smoke. Usually a clean out brings them back to life. Some owners blank them off, but they're fitted for a reason so removing them can upset cylinder head and turbo running temperatures plus increase NOx emissions and in the UK, it will fail an MOT if tester even suspects it's been blanked off. My own car has done 146k miles, and apart from an EGR clean out, it still operates as it was designed to and doesn't cause any issues.
The big issue with T30's is severe rust in rear suspension turret and inner wheel well panels. When it's bad, the top of the strut can break through the inner wind and destabilise the vehicle. The corrosion can eat into the floor and rear sill to jacking point area too. What makes it really dangerous and expensive is that this rust can remain hidden even at MOT time because the rust works within two panels and can only be seen when inner rear trim is removed for inspection. basically Nissan spot-welded a reinforcement panel that acts as drainage to the inner wheel well. The drains get filled up with road salt and debris and start rusting from the inside out. It can be repaired but it's a huge job if the rust has spread and it often means the car is uneconomical to repair. Having said this, later T30's weren't so bad but still check the area carefully - it could save you from an expensive repair or worse. There is a video on my 'The Xtrail Files' playlist that shows what to look for.

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