Rolex & Cartier: Steel Sports Watches; Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore; Patek Philippe

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Rolex and Patek Philippe collectors join the wider luxury watch world as Tim Mosso wakes up with watches! Today’s show features an extensive collection of luxury watches on bracelets as well as straps plus a distinct split between luxury-class watches and true high horology models.

Bracelet watches are the hottest models of the moment. Watches from Rolex dominate the category. This morning’s show opens with a classic watch reference: Rolex Explorer 214270. Upgraded in 2010 to a 39mm case and in 2016 with a fully luminescent dial, the Rolex Explorer sports watch never has been more capable. Also unveiled at Baselworld 2016, the Rolex Daytona “ceramic bezel” is a legend in its own time; today’s example of Rolex’s racing chronograph matches its Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a sinister black lacquer dial.

Rolex dress watches also have their say in the presentation; we feature a Datejust 36 and a Day-Date 40. This Datejust is anything but a common variant thanks to a Rolex “concentric” dial, roulette date, radial Arabic numerals, and a domed Everose rose gold bezel. The Day-Date 40 launched at Baselworld 2015 and quickly supplanted the old Day Date II. Today’s example features a stunning olive green sunburst dial, white gold Roman numerals, and Rolex president bracelet in matching white gold.

Cartier belongs in any discussion of leading luxury watch brands, and the new Cartier Santos blue dial belongs in any discussion of top luxury sports watches. With Cartier’s brilliant “Quick Switch” bracelet system and “Smart Link” sizeable bracelet links, the 2018-present Santos offers practical innovation for luxury watch buyers. The 2019 Santos blue dial adds a dramatic gradient blue dial base, polished metal numerals, and luminescent broadsword hands for viewing at night.

Audemars Piguet’s 2018 Royal Oak Offshore (blue dial) and Breguet’s legendary Type XX pilots watch provide sports watch chronograph options for watch collectors who prefer their action on straps rather than bracelets.

Patek Philippe of Geneve is a giant of the watch industry, and no fewer than four models appear on today’s show. The 5970P and 5270G perpetual calendar chronographs showcase two generations of Patek’s most acclaimed complication. A year-2000 Gondolo 5100J proves that fine finish (Geneva Hallmark) and chronometry (COSC Swiss chronometer) can co-exist in a single exquisite “manta ray” case. Finally the underrated stainless steel white dial 5960/1A annual calendar flyback chronograph provides a Patek Philippe option for watch enthusiasts who prefer sportier styles and full steel bracelets.

Watches from Officine Panerai, Laurent Ferrier, Maitres du Temps, and Germany’s A. Lange & Sohne round out today’s selection.

• A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Timezone 116.039 $34,950
• A Lange & Sohne Saxonia Langematik Perpetual 310.025 $54,950
• Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26470ST.OO.A030CA.01 $26,450
• Breguet Type XX Transatlantique 3820BB/P2/9W6 $11,950
• Cartier Santos de Cartier (Blue Dial, Santos Large) WSSA0013 $5,495
• Larent Ferrier Galet Traveller Night Blue Globe LCF012.G1.NGE08 $49,950
• Maitres Du Temps Chapter 3 C3R.00.00.800.99-C5 $59,990
• Panerai Luminor Base 8 Days PAM 561 PAM00561 $4,950
• Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days PAM 422 PAM00422 $7,950
• Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days PAM 995 PAM00995 $10,950
• Patek Philippe 5960/1A-001 Annual Calendar Chronograph $47,950
• Patek Philippe 5970P-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph $209,950
• Patek Philippe 5270G-014 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph $138,950
• Patek Philippe Gondolo 5100J-001 10-Day Millennium $29,950
• Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 116201 $8,450
• Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 214270 $7,250
• Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN $25,450
• Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 228239 $32,950
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