Planting peppers that actually produce.

A family favorite is the Padrón—some are hot and some are not. You won't know which one until it's too late. Last year our son found out the hard way. He said sweet, sweet, sweet. Then he screamed.

Everything you need to know before putting peppers in the ground:

Soil Temperature
Wait until soil reaches at least 60°F (65°F is ideal). If it's a little cooler the peppers will be OK but they just sit there judging you.

Spacing
Plant 12–18 inches apart. We plant on the tighter end—the peppers shade each other which helps prevent sunscald. We put our bigger sweet peppers in the middle of our beds and tougher hot peppers on the outside protect them.

Fertilizer
We mixed in a balanced fertilizer at the base of each hole before planting. Balanced means equal parts nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)—something like a 10-10-10.

Here's what each does:
— Nitrogen builds leaves and stems
— Phosphorus supports root development and fruit production
— Potassium supports overall plant health and disease resistance

Go easy on nitrogen. Too much and you'll grow a beautiful lush plant that produces almost no fruit. We want fruit.

Cal-Mag (calcium and magnesium) supports flowering and fruiting and is worth adding if you want to go the extra mile. Calcium helps prevent blossom end rot. Magnesium helps with chlorophyll production.

Planting
Set the plant in at the same depth it was in the pot. Press soil down firmly. Air pockets dry out roots. Water in deeply immediately after planting.

Sun
Full sun. At least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily. No shortcuts here. Peppers grown in shade are sad peppers.

Watering
Water at the base, not the leaves. Morning is best. Keep moisture consistent—do your best. Irregular watering causes blossom drop which means fewer peppers. If the soil is dry—water. Simple as that.

Mulch
Mulch around the base. Retains moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates soil temperature. One of the easiest things you can do with the biggest payoff.

Pruning
Pinch off the first few flowers. It feels wrong. Do it anyway. Redirecting that early energy into root and plant development means a stronger plant and better harvest later in the season.

Stakes
Stake taller varieties early before the fruit load (or wind) arrives. We used brush we cleared from the yard. The price is right.

Patience
Peppers are slow starters. Don't panic in June when everyone else looks more productive. Once summer heat kicks in peppers take off. Trust the process.

Harvesting
Pick peppers when they reach full size and color. The more you pick the more the plant produces. Don't leave them on the plant too long because it signals the plant to slow down production.

One more thing—Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non (Padrón peppers, some are hot and some are not.)

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