Surf Simply's Question Time: Back Foot Heavy & How Beaches Handle Long Period Swells

In this week's episode of Question Time Harry addresses the phrase, 'back foot heavy', and what it means to modern surfing, and then covers the meteorology & bathymetry question of what effect does the sand and beach have on long or short period swells.

Original Questions:
How do you know for sure if you are back footed, front footed or neutral? And how should it affect your board/ shape amd fin choice? I'm talking about advanced shortboard surfing specifically - Beufah.

Why is it where I live in Ne York, most beaches generally close out with anything over 10 seconds period, however in Costa Rica or MExico (Puerto Escondido), they easily handle longer period swell? - Tom Schelling.

Ru's Quick Tips episode on back foot position: https://youtu.be/oS_EVOV5lrQ

Видео Surf Simply's Question Time: Back Foot Heavy & How Beaches Handle Long Period Swells канала Surf Simply