Roberto Cavalli Menswear Spring/Summer 2015

A boyhood fantasy come to life, spring/summer 2015 explores the dreams of the Roberto Cavalli playboy and pays homage to the adventurous life of the designer himself. The idea of Miami in the late 1970s and early 1980s plays backdrop to a collection rooted in the playful and indulgent lifestyle of a worldly flâneur, and draws on the ongoing rediscovery of the colourful, free-spirited nature of the Roberto Cavalli man. It is a deconstructed take on the playboy imagined within the culturally eclectic frames of Miami's fast cars, sun-glazed skyscrapers, palm trees, and azure sea. A carefree marriage between cocktail attire and daywear, the collection fuses the mood of the American era in question with Roberto Cavalli's gilded romanticism, shifting the volume of blazers to trousers for a modern skinny top and loose-fitting bottom. Shoulders are consistently unpadded and fabrics are ultra-light.

Nearly identical to Don Johnson's 1972 sports car in Miami Vice, the presence of Roberto Cavalli's own 1970 Ferrari Daytona on the runway makes for a nostalgic counterpart to a neon cube installation celebrating the designer's restaurant and lounge recently launched in Miami. Navy blue, sand, pastels, and whites manifest the Miami colour scheme, while the city's vibrancy sets in courtesy of highlights in Kawasaki green, electric blue, and acid yellow. Floral and leaf prints and embroidered palm trees draw on Florida's subtropical scenery, while alligator and python -- real and in prints and jacquards -- hint at the wildlife of the Sunshine State. Intricate textures, treatments, and elaborate jacquards appear throughout the collection. A nod to the swimming pool tiles of Miami, some prints are deconstructed like mosaic patterns, alluding to the perfect imperfection of the Roberto Cavalli philosophy.

Maintaining a relaxed silhouette, the collection merges the ease of the Miami playboy with Roberto Cavalli trademarks, giving way to printed kaftans, sleeveless Cubana shirts, and embroidered and studded lightweight leather pieces, some in silk taffeta fusions. There's an air of sexual sportswear about jogging bottoms and oversized shirts and pleated trousers reinforcing the casual approach. The artisanal takes centre stage with techniques such as stampato in capo, the application of print to a finished garment, and falso unito, a corrosion method where print is added to fabric tone-on-tone or slightly contrasting. Outerwear is treated with silicone lacquer making garments feel like leather but look like cotton. A final nod to Miami, a modern take on espadrilles appear throughout the collection in perforated leather with acid green and electric blue soles.


Видео Roberto Cavalli Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 канала Roberto Cavalli