How to Sew a Medieval Supportive Kirtle

This is the first in a 3-part series in which I make a historically-inspired Maleficent costume. Stay tuned for the next two parts!

The second video: https://youtu.be/v6ojwpYWn94

Using historical construction techniques, in this video, I walk through the process of both drafting and making a 15th-century, bust-supportive kirtle. I hand-sewed this Medieval kirtle using directions pulled from the Medieval Tailor's Assistant, a hugely useful book with historically-accurate (or adequate, if you will) techniques for everything from braies to headdresses.

This is my first foray into the world of Medieval. Follow me as I go through the drafting processes, and hand-stitch my very first garment! I'm so pleased with the way this thing came out. Hopefully, by watching this video, you can learn from my mistakes and create a kirtle that is supportive, versatile and FANCY.

In addition, like some kirtles from the 15th century, I made it convertible--meaning that the sleeves are pin-in, so I can take them off for those hot summer days, giving this a much larger scope of wear. In addition, with the sleeves being convertible, I can make more sleeves in contrasting colors to freshen up my look, saving on money and construction while having a great, versatile dress fit for many occasions.

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Chapters:

00:00 Introduction
04:29 Building the Medieval block
06:26 Drafting the kirtle
08:32 Drafting the sleeve ~*scary math time*~
12:07 Making the mock-up
14:12 Cutting out
18:32 Marking stitch lines the lazy way
18:54 Hand sewing silliness and prepping the lining
22:26 Kirtle final fitting
24:12 Gratuitous hand stitching
25:40 Side seam explanation
27:36 Finishing and making pretty
28:28 Adding the eyelets
29:06 Assembling the sleeves
32:17 The hem
35:21 The Reveal
37:23 Takeaways
42:13 Bloopers

Resources:
The Curved-Front Kirtle Tutorial from La Cotte Simple: http://cottesimple.com/tutorials/curved-front-seam/

Medieval Tailor's Assistant: https://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-2nd-1100-1480/dp/0896762955

Fingerloop braid tutorial:
I used Morgan Donner's tutorial here: https://youtu.be/GQpEcGfv-rY
As well as Daisy Viktoria's, which explains the challenges of doing longer braids like mine : https://youtu.be/8k7plwwMJfY

Photo References:

1. Rogier van der Weyden, 1430-35
(Vos, p. 24)
Detail from The Descent from the Cross

2. Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1450
(Web Gallery of Art)
Braque Family Triptych (detail)

I found both these photos here, and there are a great many others for your researching pleasure: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/

Supplies:
Medium weight linen and thread from Mood: https://www.moodfabrics.com/grasmere-prism-violet-medium-weight-linen-woven-134676

Medium weight herringbone ticking linen from Burnley and Trowbridge: https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/collections/linen-white-naturals-neutrals/products/6796-off-white-medium-weight-herringbone-linen-ticking?variant=39328571686999

I used 5 colors of standard embroidery floss for the fingerloop braid

Frixion pens: https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=frixion+pens&crid=1AU638LG36U53&sprefix=frixion+pens%2Caps%2C213&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_12

Corset lacing ruler by Amped Atelier: https://amped-atelier.square.site/

Socials:

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My Website: https://jackimoffa.com/

Music I use: Bensound.com
License code: XKC4CDB919VRZAH5
Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/

#historicalcostuming #medievalcostuming #15thcenturyclothing #handsewn

Видео How to Sew a Medieval Supportive Kirtle канала Fantastical Follies Costuming