How To Start An Engine That's Sat For Months

Step-by-step guide to starting your carburated engine after it's been sitting for a long period of time.

In this weeks video we are using the 360 Small-Block from our '79 D150 rebuild to show the steps needed to be able to effectively fire up the engine while also minimizing any risk of damage. This engine has been sitting still for almost a year, but whether it's been a few months or a few years, small block or big block, the same steps can be applied to any project.

Timestamps:
0:28 - wet check (oil, coolant, transmission, hoses and engine and fuel filter);
2:12 - air check;
2:38 - carburetor linkage check;
3:24 - electrical checks;
4:15 - hand-cranking the engine;
5:03 - battery;
5:38 - vacuum gauge;
5:50 - what to expect before we start the engine;
7:46 - how to prep the carb and get the engine started;
8:35 - starting the engine and doing the checks;
9:42 - summing up.

WET CHECK:
The goal here to make sure that you know the state of things before starting. Checking all the fluid levels first is as important as checking hoses. If your fluids are low, top them up. If they look dirty, full of cream-cheese, or look as though they are contaminated, then they'll need to be replaced. If your hoses are cracked around the rad clamps, or the rubber is crumbling in your hands, those will need to be replaced as well. Pay close attention to the smaller vacuum lines too, as even the smallest cut or hole in them will have adverse effects on your engine.

HAND-CRANKING YOUR ENGINE:
Any engine that has been sitting still for a period of time will have its fluids sitting as low as they can. Although hand cranking doesn't come close to providing the pressure the oil or water pumps would give at running RPMs, it's still critical to cycle the engine over: get those parts moving and going through their cycles at a nice slow rate before hammering them with the engine starter. Simply put, if you haven't played a game of hockey for as long as your engine has sat, would you jump on the ice first shift or stretch a little first?

FLOODED ENGINE:
Alright, so you smell a lot of gas and there isn't a leak, so you think that you've got a flooded engine. The fastest way to cure this is to let the fuel evaporate, and that'll take some time (anywhere from 30-60 minutes). Do this in a WELL VENTILATED AREA!

The other thing you can to do check for sure is to pull one of your spark plugs out. BUT, remember, you're going to have fuel vapours coming out of that open spark plug hole... might not be the best time to light a cigar or risk any spark. If your spark plug is wet and smells strongly of fuel and a bit of oil, well, you've got a flooded engine. Throw that plug back in, go for a cup of coffee, come back after a bit, and try again.

The most typical causes for a flooded engine on anything that has been sitting for a while include stepping on the gas pedal too much or that the floats in the carburetor are stuck and fuel is just pouring in. Although we are going to put up a video on troubleshooting and working with carbs in the future, I strongly suggest a quick google search for "flooded carburetor issues" and put your type of carb in there. Plenty of information out there to help you.

NON-CHOKE CARBURETOR:
Alas, your carburetor has no choke! So what does this mean? Long story short, you're going to be pumping your pedal a lot more than with a regular choke. As there is no choke your accelerator pump acts to shoot fuel into the carb. This is why more pumps of the pedal are needed than a choked carb.

Before you start trying to turn the engine over, I strongly recommend to pop your air cleaner off to get a good look down into the carb. Have someone step all the way to the wall on the gas pedal (but not turning the key in any way - remember, we want to keep our eyebrows). You should see (or hear) a shot of fuel from the accelerator pump enter the carb. If the pedal goes all the way but there's no shot, it's a good indicator that you have a dry/empty float bowl.

These carbs are some of worst for flooding an engine. If you have no fuel, as mentioned above, approach the engine start as mentioned in the video (by stepping on the pedal while turning the engine over to get that mechanical fuel pump to do its job). But if there is fuel, you should need only about 3-5 extra pumps of the pedal. I say "should" as in an ideal world.

VACUUM GAUGE:
Simply put, this single tool can help you diagnose a multitude of issues that your engine could have. Below is a link to a very helpful chart for comparing the actions of the needle to the issue of the engine:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=838456
Thanks for watching. As always, if you have comments, questions or tips of your own, feel free to leave a comment below. Many more videos still to come, so don't forget to subscribe!

Cheers,
Mark.

Видео How To Start An Engine That's Sat For Months канала Pist'n Twisted Garage