The Ancient Art of Fermenting Soybean Paste: Forgotten Skills The Master Artisans

For centuries, families and artisans across Northeast China have produced traditional fermented soybean paste using techniques passed down through generations. Long before industrial food production, this paste served as an essential seasoning and source of flavor throughout the year. The process relies on natural fermentation, careful environmental control, and the skill of artisans who understand how time, temperature, moisture, and microorganisms work together to create complex flavors.

. The Scene & Technique

In a rural courtyard, freshly cooked soybeans steam in large vessels while artisans prepare for the first stage of fermentation. Nearby, rows of fermentation blocks rest on wooden racks, and large ceramic jars await months of aging beneath the sun.

Unlike modern factory production, this process cannot be rushed. Nature itself becomes one of the most important tools.

.The Process:
.Preparation
Selecting the Soybeans
Mature soybeans are chosen for processing.
Foreign material is removed.
The beans are cleaned thoroughly.
Soaking
Soybeans are soaked in water.
Moisture penetrates the beans.
Texture softens before cooking.

1. Cooking the Soybeans
Steaming or Boiling
The soaked beans are cooked until tender.
Starches and proteins become more accessible.
The beans develop the proper texture for processing.
Cooling
The cooked soybeans are allowed to cool.
Moisture levels are monitored.
The beans are prepared for shaping.

2. Forming the Fermentation Blocks
Crushing and Mixing
Cooked soybeans are mashed or crushed.
The mass becomes more uniform.
Traditional techniques shape the material.
Block Formation
The soybean mixture is compressed into blocks.
Shapes are formed by hand or simple molds.
Each block is prepared for microbial growth.

3. Primary Fermentation
Natural Inoculation
Beneficial microorganisms begin colonizing the blocks.
Environmental conditions encourage fermentation.
Surface changes gradually become visible.
Developing the Culture
The blocks are monitored carefully.
Temperature and airflow influence development.
Distinct aromas begin to emerge.
The Forgotten Skill
Experienced artisans often judge progress through appearance, aroma, texture, and seasonal conditions rather than instruments alone.

4. Sun Drying and Maturation
Drying
Fermented blocks may be dried naturally.
Moisture content decreases.
Preservation improves.
Seasonal Influence
Sunlight, airflow, and climate contribute to the process.
Local environmental conditions help shape flavor characteristics.
The fermentation continues to evolve.

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