HOW TO BUILD AN ELECTROLYSIS TANK FOR CAST IRON RESTORATION

Fill the tote 2/3 or so with water, making sure the water level is deep enough to submerge your cast iron.

Add 1/2 cup of the washing soda per 5 gallons of water. This isn't a crucial measurement. Just get close. Mix well to dissolve.

Place the sacrificial metal into the tank. I like to leave a corner up out of the water to clamp the charger to, but it can be submerged if you like. I use the clamp to hold the metal in position to one side of the tank.

Extend the stick or pvc pipe across the tote, and tie a section of string to the center of it. Attach your rusty pot to the string and let it sink into the water with only a small amount of metal exposed above the water level.

Clamp the negative clamp from your battery charger to the piece of cast iron you are cleaning just above the water's surface. Clamp the positive clamp to the sacrificial metal.

Set your charger to a manual, 12-volt setting. (Don't use the quick-start setting if your charger has one; just the standard 12-volt setting.)

Plug in the charger and go about your daily business. In a day or two, depending on the rust level, your pan will be cleaned and ready to season. You should see tiny foam bubbles start to form around your cast iron after a bit. Foamy rust will rise to the surface after several hours.

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