Journey to St Kilda from Oban on MV Hjalmar Bjorge - June 2017

The archipelago of St Kilda lies 45 miles West of Uist in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland. It consists of Hirta (which until its evacuation in 1930 was Britain’s most remote populated outpost), Soay, Boreray and two mighty stacks, Stac Lee and Stac an Armin. Because of its natural and cultural qualities it is one of only 6 double Unesco World Heritage sites. The whole trip from Oban took 6 days on a lovely converted old Norwegian rescue boat, with visits to Rum, Canna, North Uist, Hirta, Skye and Mull. The seas were rough, the day boats stayed in Leverburgh and so we were the only visitors, mooring overnight in the bay with two visits ashore. The sun came out, the clouds cleared and it is a stunning, atmospheric place. It is surreal and sad to walk through the long-deserted village and reflect that humans lived there mostly in complete isolation for over two thousand years, eking out a living mostly from harvesting the seabirds that live on the cliffs by absailing down on a rope made from the hair of the women or climbing the Stacs and Boreray. They stored their harvest in Cleits – unique stone structures that cover the island.
Thanks to the skipper and crew of MV Hjalmar Bjorge (Tim, Craig and Emily) for their expertise, affability and determination to get us there.

Film by Steve Poole

Music credits:

'Da Slockit Light' (Tom Anderson) performed by Alasdair Fraser & Natalie Haas from the CD 'Fire and Grace' http://www.alasdairfraser.com/

'Manannan' (Trad) performed by Emma Christian from the CD 'Beneath the Twilight'

'Winds and Tides Permitting' (Enda McCabe) performed by Tim Edey from the CD 'The Collective' http://timedey.co.uk/

(Epilogue)
When visited in 1697 by a Martin Martin he described them as being the happiest people he had ever met, content with their abundant supply of food and their egalitarian society based on cooperation. When the Victorians started to visit in the 1800s by steamer they brought diseases to which the islanders had no immunity, and infantile tetanus was a major cause of death. They also brought dependency. Then came the tyrannical zealous missionary preachers who browbeat the islanders into attending church most of the time that they weren’t working or sleeping. Strict conformation was required on threat of terrible punishment in the afterworld, and all music and poetry was deemed evil and therefore forbidden. Much of that culture was lost and contentment was replaced by misery. Gradually the younger ones left for a better life abroad, there were insufficient men to man the boats and life became unsustainable. In 1930 the islanders were starving and evacuation was the only option - the saddest of acts. A few went back to visit or be laid to rest in their beloved land.

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