2007-2013 Mini Cooper S (R56) 2885 code boost deviation plausibility lack of power rough idle SOLVED

2007-2013 Mini Cooper S (R56) boost deviation problem
*Please read entire description to find which items you have/have not checked

Main issue:
2885 or P2885 fault code - boost deviation/plausibility

Main symptoms:
Check engine light, half engine symbol, "limp mode", lack of power, no turbo boost or low turbo boost

Other symptoms:
Rough idle, evap system codes, vanos or timing codes

Other related codes:
2B64 - intake manifold secondary air
287D & 287E - vanos, inlet, stair movement
2785 - additive mixture adaptation
Things to check:
1. Vacuum line from nipple of vacuum pump to vacuum reservoir (underneath intake manifold). Vacuum line from reservoir to boost waste gate solenoid (under intake manifold), vacuum line from boost solenoid to turbo wastegate.

2. Wastegate operation (unplug vacuum line and plug in a vacuum pump. draw 10 in. Hg of vacuum and watch waste gate rod for movement. If not moving, wastegate is bad.

3. Diverter valve (stock BOV). Remove and inspect internal diaphragm for any holes or rips.

4. All turbo piping and clamps. While car is running, spray starter fluid or carb cleaner along all of the pipes and clamps. If the idle increases, then you have a vacuum leak at that spot.

5. Turbo wastegate butterfly valve (inside rear of turbo housing). Separate down pipe from rear of turbo, pry open or stick a bore camera inside and while using vacuum pump for wastegate, watch to see if butterfly valve fully closes at 10 in. Hg. If there is a gap or doesn't fully seat correctly, then rear turbo housing needs to be replaced.

6. Seized turbo. Remove intake pipe leading to inlet of turbo. Try to spin compressor wheel with finger. If doesn't spin, turbo needs replacement.

7. Check boost waste gate solenoid (underneath intake manifold). While solenoid has no power, blow into the nipple labeled "VAC". Should NOT be able to pass air through. Blow into second nipple, air should be able to escape. Then power the solenoid with 9V battery and jump cables. Should hear a clicking noise. If no noise, solenoid is bad. If hear noise, blow into the nipple labeled "VAC". This time, air should come out of other nipple. If still cannot pass air though, then solenoid is bad.

8. Check boost pressure/temp sensor (located on charge pipe before throttle body) AND map sensor (attached on top of intake manifold). Use obd2 scanner or phone app and verify while engine is not running (ignition set to ON position) you read EITHER 0 psi, or atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi). While car is running at idle, map sensor should fluctuate up and down and boost/temp sensor should still read 14.7 atmospheric pressure. While driving car under load both sensors should begin to match up reading at least 15.7 psi to as high as 29 psi (atmospheric pressure + 15 psi for regular type S mini coopers) or as high as 34 psi for John Cooper Works models.

9. If cylinder head was removed for ANY reason (ie. bent valves, head gasket failure, timing chain failure, engine rebuild), chances of mixing up the electrical connectors between the VANOS solenoid, fuel tank purge solenoid, and turbo boost waste gate solenoid are very likely. All connectors looks very similar, all have same orange and white wires.

I hope this helps to solve your 2885 code issue. Please like and subscribe and leave a comment!

More info can be found in these forums:
1. https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/187942-code-2885-a.html
2. https://www.mini2.com/threads/p2885-fault-code.352927/
3. https://jmtcperformance.com/publications/mini-cooper-2885-boost-pressure-control-deviation-plausibility-error/

Видео 2007-2013 Mini Cooper S (R56) 2885 code boost deviation plausibility lack of power rough idle SOLVED канала Big Murff