3 Basic Hand Stitches for Historical Sewing

How to do them, when to use them.
Also: thimbles are very important!!

For skipping:
0:30 - running stitch
1:05 - running backstitch
1:47 - backstitch
3:40 - felling for hems
4:56 - felling for seam allowances

MATERIAL SOURCES:
-Sample fabric used is a lightweight bleached linen from Grey Lines Linen, NYC.
-Thread used is a 2-ply silk from Daytona Trimmings, NYC

Useful Tools for Those So Inclined:
(Please note that these are affiliate links)
-Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh
-Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ
-Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7
-My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf
-Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft
-Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY
-(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX)

USEFUL REFERENCES
All three of the 17th Century Dress books (published by the Victoria and Albert Museum) by Melanie Braun, Luca Costigliolo, Susan North, Claire Thornton, and Jenny Tiramani have a couple of pages dedicated to illustrating historical stitching techniques, including the ones outlined in this video as well as more complex stitches and embroidery stitches.
-17th Century Men’s Dress Patterns 1600 - 1630 https://www.amazon.com/17th-Century-Dress-Patterns-Susan-North/dp/0500519056/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0500519056&pd_rd_r=8W4R9D9DD6VQKJF9MB6X&pd_rd_w=AtS4y&pd_rd_wg=HnOYa&psc=1&refRID=8W4R9D9DD6VQKJF9MB6X&dpID=51KrMl%252BiLYL&preST=_SX218_BO1,204,203,200_QL40_&dpSrc=detail
-Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns: Book 1 https://www.amazon.com/Seventeenth-Century-Womens-Dress-Patterns-Book/dp/1851776311/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1534606643&sr=8-2&keywords=17th+century+women%27s+dress+patterns&dpID=51NVq4mNJ0L&preST=_SX218_BO1,204,203,200_QL40_&dpSrc=srch
-Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns: Book 2 https://www.amazon.com/Seventeenth-Century-Womens-Dress-Patterns-Book/dp/1851776850/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534606643&sr=8-1&keywords=17th+century+women%27s+dress+patterns

Some interesting 19th century sewing manuals:
-Van Hoesen Wakeman, Mrs Antoinette Prudence and Heller, Louise M. Scientific Sewing and Garment Cutting: For Use in Schools and in the Home. Silver, Burdett & Company. 1898. Print. (https://books.google.com/books?id=9TRCAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Scientific+sewing+and+garment+cutting,+for+use+in+schools+and+in+the+home&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi7hZ6dqujaAhUPvVkKHQxKCyYQ6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q=Scientific%20sewing%20and%20garment%20cutting%2C%20for%20use%20in%20schools%20and%20in%20the%20home&f=false)

-Banner, Bertha. Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking. Longmans, Green, and Co. London, 1898. Print. (https://books.google.com/books?id=IhMlyt7IuGsC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Household+sewing+with+home+dressmaking&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiwp7idp-jaAhXDTd8KHbwcDqIQ6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q&f=false)

*Note that I strongly discourage purchasing new books from Amazon and other discount book retailers (excluding used and secondhand), as these sellers cut the price (and therefore the author’s and contributors’ royalties) without consent. Particularly in the realm of costuming and patterning books where book sales are significantly fewer than more commercially popular nonfiction, the writers of these essential books deserve to be compensated for the extraordinary amount of time and effort put into producing them.
On occasion some books I’ve referenced are currently out of print and can only be found through Amazon, so I have posted the links if you are in immediate need; however I will update these links whenever alternative options become available.

MUSIC
‘Waterfall’ by Aakash Gandhi. YouTube Audio Library

Portals to Other Realms:
Instagram, for real-time progress: instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner)
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Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner
Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop

For business enquiries, please contact my representation at:
bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com
Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time.

Видео 3 Basic Hand Stitches for Historical Sewing канала Bernadette Banner