Hiking the Paparoa Track, New Zealand's Newest Great Walk

March 21 - 24, 2020 - Our time on the Paparoa Track was incredible! Even with the weather making the views non-existent for the majority of the trail, we could see the potential and were amazed by the variety of landscapes the trail offered. Huts are the only overnight options as there are no campsites on this trail. To our surprise, during our time on the track, New Zealand moved from a Covid19 level 2 to 3 and closed the track the day we exited. This video captured a bit of the confusion and our initial response (embarrassingly whiny), but be sure to continue past these clips as the trail on the last day was fun and unique.

The Paparoa Track is New Zealand’s 10th Great Walk located on the West Coast of the South Island. It is 55.7 km (34.6 mi) in length and crosses the Paparoa Range on a breathtaking journey through alpine tops, limestone landscapes and thriving rainforests. The track is shared by both mountain bikers and hikers and the time required to complete vary according to your fitness, direction of travel, mode of travel and the weather. .

The Ngāti Waewae hapū of Ngāi Tahu are the kaitiaki of Paparoa National Park, guardians of the area’s native species and ecosystems. In the 1860s, the discovery of gold on the West Coast sparked a gold rush and a sudden influx of European settlement. Between 1881 and 1899, the Croesus Track was constructed to allow better access to mines in upper Blackball Creek. The first part of the Paparoa Track follows this route. On 19 November 2010, 29 men perished in an underground explosion at the Pike River Mine. Created in partnership with the families of those 29 men, the Department of Conservation and Ngāti Waewae, the Paparoa Track is a memorial to the men and a thank you to New Zealanders for their support of the Pike River Families.

Smoke-ho car park to Ces Clark Hut: 4 – 5 hr, 10.3 km; This first section of the Paparoa Track is the historic Croesus Track. This track still retains some of its original stonework and is steep and rough in places. The track begins at Smoke-ho car park and follows Blackball Creek. It winds through mixed podocarp and beech forest, with occasional views of the creek. The track then zigzags up the dividing ridge between the Blackball Creek and Roaring Meg Creek catchments. The track then climbs more steeply into subalpine forest. Ces Clark Hut is on the edge of the bushline, set among low alpine scrub and with spectacular views.

Ces Clark Hut to Moonlight Tops Hut: 3 hr, 9.7 km; The track follows the ridge of the main Paparoa Range through open alpine vegetation above the Roaring Meg and Moonlight Creek catchments, with views of Aoraki/Mt Cook to the south on a clear day. Moonlight Tops Hut provides panoramic scenery, looking out across the Punakaiki River headwaters around to the escarpment, Pike Stream and north across Paparoa National Park.

Moonlight Tops Hut to Pororari Hut: 5 – 7 hr, 19.1 km; Beyond Moonlight Tops Hut, the open tops give way to low alpine forest, stunted by the harsh environment. The track continues to follow the Paparoa Range ridge. It climbs gently around the side of Mt Anderson (1069 m), then descends and leads along the top of the escarpment above Pike Stream – a remarkable area of steep cliffs and dramatic views. After approximately 10 km, the track descends from the escarpment into an area of ancient podocarp forest. It follows the ridge above Tindale Creek through stunning rainforest to Pororari Hut. Keep an eye out for Lone Hand, a gnarled outcrop of rock on the north side of Pororari River.

Pororari Hut to Punakaiki carpark: 4 – 5 hr, 16 km; The track descends into the upper Pororari River valley and follows the river. In some places it follows an old track which was built c1912–1914 to establish a settlement in the valley. The track sidles along a spectacular gorge and descends through beech forest interspersed with northern rātā. At the junction of the Inland Pack Track and the Paparoa Track, hikers and mountain bikers diverge. Walkers take the Pororari River Track through the Pororari River Gorge, passing through lush rainforest with glades of nīkau palms.

The track is well marked and signposted, but it is very exposed in places. The Paparoa mountain tops are an alpine environment – the weather changes very rapidly and extreme cold and heavy rain are common at any time of year. Winter conditions (May to October) make the track more challenging. It is important to make sure you have the necessary skills, experience, fitness and equipment required before starting the track. The following travel times are approximate and will vary according to your fitness, direction of travel and the weather.

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