I Made A Chemise Gown From IKEA Curtains || Problematic History of this 18th Century Gown

The early history and possible origins of the chemise gown (robe a la Creole, chemise a la reine, gaulle) as well as how I made mine, and my thoughts on pursuing historical costuming as an environmentally and socially conscious sewer.

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This video is part of the Costube Symposium 2021!
Playlist for all of the CoSy videos!: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkwWH_-yP6U&list=PL3z00JFxdhfFWeTnhniEjLYLOF6SbXUml
Link to CoSy 2021 Program: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SbrOBOySTxgJsYMeG1H-SutjRHA4Ri6A/view?usp=sharing
https://linktr.ee/CosTubeSymposium
https://www.instagram.com/costubesymposium/?igshid=68whoxxiyv9i
#IKEAcore

References:
***Edit: I relied heavily on Ashelford’s article, and while she doesn’t come out and say it, she does dance around/imply chemise gowns were inspired by free and enslaved Black women’s dress.
Ashelford J. “Colonial livery” and the chemise à la reine, 1779–1784. Costume: Journal of the Costume Society. 2018;52(2):217-239. doi:10.3366/cost.2018.0069

Blog on Creole dress:
https://earlyamericanists.com/2018/09/11/creole-comforts-and-french-connections-a-case-study-in-caribbean-dress/

Hannah’s Chemise a la reine:
https://fabricnfiction.com/2019/08/05/chemise-a-la-reine/

History of Saint-Domingue: http://slaveryandremembrance.org/articles/article/?id=A0111

Sewstine’s video on her Chemise a la Reine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5UOAnVtAE0

DIY 1780s hat:
https://www.instagram.com/alatheish/
https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17907791719786120/

Matilda curtains from IKEA.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/matilda-sheer-curtains-1-pair-white-10111984/

*Edit: some kind members of a Facebook costuming group where I shared my video let me know there are historians who have explicitly connected chemise gowns to free and enslaved Black women’s dress, like this one:

http://smallaxe.net/sxsalon/discussions/culture-power-and-appropriation-creolized-aesthetics-revolutionary-french?fbclid=IwAR2JLxcV_Fy4aR0oWPYNcDcseOIc-Z9Iea49Aqg5jbs9vfKVOc1vLnCnzIM

00:00 Introduction
00:45 Marie Antoinette
01:32 Colonial origins of chemise gowns
08:19 Policing Women's Clothing
09:00 Popularity of chemise gowns
10:00 Problematic gown?
10:24 When they are appropriate
13:00 Mock ups of gown
13:40 Divide up curtain material
14:42 Sewing the Bodice
16:26 Front Skirt and Bodice
17:39 Sewing the Ruffles
18:56 1780s Sash and Hat
20:02 Costuming with Friends
20:38 The Gown in Action

Видео I Made A Chemise Gown From IKEA Curtains || Problematic History of this 18th Century Gown канала A Janeite Sews