MG Rover K-Series Engine Rebuild Do's & Don'ts. Extra Hints & Tips

During a recent K-series 1.8 rebuild of a poorly built engine, a list of Do's and Don'ts on engine rebuilds came to mind that I am sharing here. Let me say this is my personal perspective from analysis of this engine and experience from rebuilding others over the years. I am sure there are other more qualified experts on this engine out there, so by all means contribute and discuss in the comments but keep differences of opinion civil! Engine balancing is a larger subject that I didn't really discuss much as there are better videos out there, so please look up those and my balancing was a bit crude but still some improvement over standard.
For full rebuild details of course use a Rover / Haynes workshop manual. This video is just some extra points to check. For instance a lot of people have there own preference for head gasket, my preference is the MG6 and KV6 type of MLS gasket without aggressive fire rings.

Here's my older video with more build details on the k-series: https://youtu.be/aMcjc3LmMv0

As shown in this video: Do’s and Don’ts of an MG Rover K-series engine rebuild:
Don’ts:
1. Don’t Over-skim the Cylinder head. Min height 118.75mm according to OEM. Time 0:45 in video
2. Don’t use silicon, definitely not lots of it, on the Camshaft retaining ladder. Time 2:08 in video
3. Don’t over-tune it like adding a turbo without changing anything else! This engine had a melted piston! Time 4:28
4. Don’t ignore bad indents on the head, skim or replace. Time 6:58
5. Don’t ignore scatches or corrosion on the surface of the block. Time 8:02

Do’s;
1. Do use the N-series head gasket. My personal favourite. Time 8:26
(Also I should add use the 10.9 high tensile strength head bolts)
2. Use the PRT thermostat. Time 9:06
3. Use the stronger Oil Rail Ladder 9:26
4. Check piston/conrod balance matching between rods/pistons 9:35
5. Set the piston ring gaps (especially if doing a turbo conversion) 10:41
6. Locate the piston ring ends correctly on assembling. Time 11:37
7. Check Liners are even and protrude over the block 3 to 4 thou. Time 12:12. Also see fitting shim later at time 19:16
8. Align pistons correctly, arrow to front. Time 12:28
9. Clean out the hydraulic Tappets / Lifters. Time 12:55
10. Use liner clamps to stop liners moving on engine rotation. Time 13:23
11. Use steel head dowels and check depth/ height. Time 14:18
12. If using a ‘manual tensioner’ type cylinder head to replace an automatic tensioner style one take care to block unused holes. Time 15:19
13. If looking to buy a new head, check head height. Time 17:19
14. Grind out any water way flashing. Time 18:08
15. Fit liner shims if liners sunk or flat with block. Time Time 19:14
16. Seal the liners (and shims). I used Hylomar in the end Time 20:36
17. Check the oil rings don’t flip out and get bent while fitting. Time 21:43
18. Check for rusted pipes and leaks - e.g. water pump inlet pipe. Time 22:47
19. Check / replace if necessary the expansion tank. Time 23:18
20. Plug the rear (gearbox side) water hole in inlet manifold (a minor leak improvement). Time 25:12
21. Check for cracks in belts. Time 25:59

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