BUCKiT #7-Laird Hamilton: Big Wave Surfer, Health Advocate, and Fitness Guru

Laird Hamilton is the world’s most famous big wave rider and the co-inventor of “tow-in surfing”, a method that utilizes a jet ski to tow surfers into giant, fast moving waves that otherwise would be impossible to ride. Growing up in Hawaii, Laird became an accomplished surfer by the age of 17. His unending passion for surfing has led him to ride the biggest waves the planet has to offer in famous spots such as Pipeline, Jaws, and Teahupoo. He continues to ride big waves to this day at 54 years old. Inspired by his stepfather to see surfing as a type of art rather than a competition against others, Laird holds a unique view of what it means to find fulfillment while doing what you love.

In addition to creating tow-in surfing, Laird was instrumental in introducing the world to hydrofoil surfing technology and has become an advocate of stand-up paddle boarding. He is married to former professional volleyball Gabrielle Reece. They split their time between residences in Maui and in Malibu.

Laird takes us through a few of his gnarliest surfing stories, what drives him to always be in the ocean, and some of the philosophies that he has adapted to help him live his “BUCKiT” lifestyle.

Links & Further Information :
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- Laird’s superfood website: https://lairdsuperfood.com/
- The Naked Rescue story: https://www.seattletimes.com/life/outdoors/surfing-star-rescues-companion-in-80-foot-hawaii-wave/
- Laird Hamilton surfing Teahupoo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8HCF2cef74
- Laird surfing a massive wave: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nS_aR8XX_U
- Take Every Wave documentary: http://www.takeeverywave.com/
- Extreme Performance Training (XTP) website: https://www.xptlife.com/

Show Highlights w/ Timestamps:
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- How much have you surfed in the last couple days? [2:40]
- Describing big wave surfing and a scary incident in 2007 [3:20]
- Passion, not trophies or acknowledgments, drive Laird’s love of surfing [6:39]
- “Creative people are fulfilled by accomplishing things, competitive people are fulfilled by beating others.”-Laird [10:44]
- “Take us into a moment where you were doing something humans had never done before [11:12]
- Why is it important for Laird to do things that have never been done? [14:13]
- When Phil’s and Laird’s family had Thanksgiving Dinner together [17:32]
- Building and maintaining relationships while having such a powerful personality [18:54]
- Laird’s food, exercise, and health initiative [20:05]
- “Never let your memories be bigger than your dreams” [23:17]
- “It’s not who you are, it’s how you are” [27:45]
- Picking back up the intro story… The Naked Rescue Story [30:45]
- “I’m going back out. Do you wanna go?” [33:51]
- Laird answers the 3 questions [36:14]
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Видео BUCKiT #7-Laird Hamilton: Big Wave Surfer, Health Advocate, and Fitness Guru канала BUCKiT with Phil Keoghan