Making a MK2 E-SHAFT for The 2 ROTOR R/C Engine! - Part 1/2
Last year I joined two O.S Wankel Rotary engines with success (sort of). The main problem was that I didn't include the front and rear counterweights and as result, it was vibrating like crazy. I could probablly make the corresponding modifications for the counterweights on the existing e-shaft, but it had some flaws that made it inaproppriate. First of all, it wasn't hardened, meaning increased wear from the needle bearings on the lobes
(I didn't notice any actual wear with the micrometer, just burnishing of the surfaces where the they came in contact with the needle bearings). Also, the front section of the existing e-shaft was 6mm to accomondate a front 6mm needle bearing (which I could have avoided) so this time, I made it 7mm so I could use a regular front bearing as the original O.S engine does.
Regarding the material, I used 1045 steel again, which I know it's one of the lowest in carbon content, but that's what was available in my area. It can be fully hardened in water, but it's almost sure that the part will bend or crack due to being long, slender and has features on it with many stress points. That's why I wented with quenching in oil. I still don't think it's hardened enough for this job, but I'll give it a go anyway. If the previous one held fine, this one will too.
➥Melting furnace that I used for heating the parts:
Link : https://ban.ggood.vip/10K9j
Code : BGa5664d
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►Instagram: johnnyq_90
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Видео Making a MK2 E-SHAFT for The 2 ROTOR R/C Engine! - Part 1/2 канала JohnnyQ90
(I didn't notice any actual wear with the micrometer, just burnishing of the surfaces where the they came in contact with the needle bearings). Also, the front section of the existing e-shaft was 6mm to accomondate a front 6mm needle bearing (which I could have avoided) so this time, I made it 7mm so I could use a regular front bearing as the original O.S engine does.
Regarding the material, I used 1045 steel again, which I know it's one of the lowest in carbon content, but that's what was available in my area. It can be fully hardened in water, but it's almost sure that the part will bend or crack due to being long, slender and has features on it with many stress points. That's why I wented with quenching in oil. I still don't think it's hardened enough for this job, but I'll give it a go anyway. If the previous one held fine, this one will too.
➥Melting furnace that I used for heating the parts:
Link : https://ban.ggood.vip/10K9j
Code : BGa5664d
►Subscribe! https://bit.ly/2m1d1y7
►Instagram: johnnyq_90
►Support my videos!: https://www.patreon.com/johnnyq90
Видео Making a MK2 E-SHAFT for The 2 ROTOR R/C Engine! - Part 1/2 канала JohnnyQ90
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