ONCE UPON A TIME in SCICLI, SICILY

2019 September 9, Mon, Day#10 -- our exploration of Val di Noto continued and today, we visited Scicli (sheek-lee), another small charming town with a Baroque flavor. 'though there are no big-league sights other than a beautiful town and several churches, Scicli has a big presence without being a big personality. When we least expected, Scicli showered us with lots of surprises, making this trip very different and enjoyable. The fun encounter began with a welcoming herd of sheep blocking the road. Next to where we made this sudden stop was Scicli cemetery, a solemn place with fascinating mausoleums, statues and stories. In a small town like this, big parking areas are nowhere to be found. Luckily, we found/parked in an empty spot just beside the Police station and started the walk toward Piazza Italia. Looking up the cliffs as we walked, tuff or tufo (caves) embedded in volcanic rocks could be seen from below. We were told that these caves were once used as dwelling and/or burial tombs. Looking down the streets, we saw water bottles in every corner of the streets, a very intriguing practice. Piazza Italia is a beautiful square lined with trees and punctuated by a beautiful church- Chiesa Madre San Ignazio. Up in the balconies of palazzos, distinctive sculptures in Baroque features/creatures could be widely seen and admired. On top of the cliff is Castelluccio, a big broken down castle. Tucked in one corner is the church of San Bartolomeo. Best part of the pedestrian zone is Via Francesco Mormina Penna, made lively by stately civic buildings and fine churches and nice restaurants, trendy stores and bars. Its town hall or Palazzo Spadaro made famous by Inspector Montalbano in the TV series used as his main office could be found here. Next to this dignified municipal building is the lovely San Giovanni Evangelista. A few steps away is the ancient Farmacia which has a huge collection of antique pill bottles/tonics. At the end of Via Francesco is the church of Saint Teresa, standing right in the middle appearing like the town's centerpiece. Half-a-day was enough for us to love this place.

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