Neck Re-Fret - the Next Project

Neck Re-fret - the Next Project

Welcome to the Next Project!
This is an intermission video which is part of a modification project series. However, this video can sand alone as an overview of re-fretting a bolt-on guitar neck.

0:04 - intro
1:10 - fret removal
2:50 - seal the slots
3:26 - ready the fingerboard
4:38 - radius the fret wire
4:53 - cut and prep the frets
6:25 - installing new frets
8:30 - bevel ’n level (adjust the trussrod)
9:01 - final finishing
10:43 - time to polish
11:25 - various tools used

The neck in this video did NOT need new frets installed, however the binding on the neck needed to be changed to match new binding on the headstock and body - so, out with the old frets and in with the new frets.

I was prepared for the frets to be glued in, but that was not the case. The old frets were simply pressed in, and pulled out of the fingerboard very easy with very little tear-out from the fret tang.

Once the frets were removed, I replaced the original binding, then started preparing the fingerboard to receive the new frets.
I did a quick level sanding of the fingerboard to get the bind in and board to the same plane and radius, also to remove and level any inconsistencies that may be down the length of the neck. In general, this neck was in very good condition, straight and smooth board.

I prepared the new fretwork by first washing it off with some acetone, lacquer thinner would also work. The reason I wash the new fret wire is that occasionally I get wire that has some sort of manufacturing film or oily substance on it. Simple enough to give it a quick cleaning.
Followed by rolling a radius on the wire in preparation for the install.
With the wire radius’d, I cut each fret position to length, plus 1/8” - 3/16” extra overhang
Wether installing frets on a bound neck or unbound neck, I typically cut the tang back just a bit to either fit inside the binding, or so it will not protrude from the fret slot on an unbound neck.
Any final neck clean-up and prep is done at this point and then it is time to install frets.
In this project, since all new frets are being installed and the fingerboard was fully leveled, I used a arbor press and fret press caul to press the frets in.
If I were installing a single fret or replacing a fret on a neck that was still on the guitar body, I would likely used a small wooden dowel and hammer to tap the fret(s) into place.
All frets could be installed by hand, rather than with the press used in this video. The results can be nearly identical and patience and finesse will dictate results.

Once the frets are all installed, cut to width and a file used to clean-up and bevel the fret ends, it is time to adjust the fingerboard flat and prepare to level the frets.
I nearly always tape the fingerboard off, sometimes I forget to… I do believe that it is a good practice, and only takes about 5 minutes to do so.
That is time well spent if the tape can help prevent any kind of damage to the fingerboard or inlay markers.

I use a precision level that is cut-down to a suitable length, as a level sanding beam. In this instance I used 320 grit paper on the beam, but 400 grit paper would work equally well for this installation. Some people may use a file or coarser paper and that is fine, but the amount of material to be removed should help determine how abrasive the removal should be.
After the leveling and drop-off are sanded, I follow up with crowning the frets. For this project I used a StewMac Z-file, I don’t want to comment on the file, as I am still on the fence as to how I feel about it. It worked well, but it also had some shortcomings, and it is very expensive - so it should be perfect… but is it? I don’t want to say either way at this point, other than “it is expensive”.

Once the frets have been filed to a new crown, I give the frets a quick sanding. I used 2 methods, the first is a small wood block wrapped in cork (or leather) then in the appropriate grit sand paper. I started with 500 grit, then went to 1200 grit on the cork wrapped block moving the length of the neck, nut to bridge direction.
After the block, I switched 1500grit paper and sanded side-to-side, working both sides of the crown for each fret. This gave the frets a very nice shine and looked ready to play.
BUT, I followed this by using a small dremel-like rotary tool equipped with a felt-wool polishing pad and some polishing compound. After this process, the frets have a mirror-like finish, now they are ready to be played!

This was a very easy project, largely due to how well the original frets came out of the fingerboard.

Please be sure to Ring the Bell and Subscribe so you are notified when the next video drops, and leave a comment. I greatly appreciate feedback.

NOTE: This is for entertainment, this is not a training video in any way, unless you are looking for the wrong way to do most things.
Enjoy at your own risk. Cheers!

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